a couple dual fueler questions

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I'm gonna be installing Midwest's dual fueler kit tomorrow evening on my dual alternator truck. I'm waiting on my new secondary water pump to arrive from sunrise ford. Its gonna be here tomorrow. Its for a single alternator truck, so I believe I got that part covered. But I'm not sure what else will need to be done with removing the second alternator. I read that some of the wires will need to be hooked together? But which ones? Can they just be removed? Do I need special tuning for removal of the second alternator? I don't want a check engine light. What h&s calibration is everyone loading, one or two? I downloaded number two to my computer last night as I believe that's the one I want. Also is there anything else I missed or have forgotten? Also should I order a new factory lift pump? I can't afford a expensive pusher pump right now. Maybe in a couple months I can tho. Or should I just get a cheap pump that's high volume like 200gph but low pressure and use it as a pusher? Any tips or tricks would also be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 

bigrpowr

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just make sure the tune is loaded before you fire it .
 
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To keep it from throwing the check engine light, you need to bridge the two wires on the alternator plug together. Take a piece of wire and securely connect it to each side of the plug so it makes a positive connection.
 
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Yes, as stated you need to load the calibration in your tuner. It will run without but you should refrain from doing so if at all possible. The factory pump will support it. I'm running a 10mm stroker pump on my 2015 with a stock cp4 and my lpf gauge does not drop more than 8psi total at wot.

H&s has a nice fuel system if your stock one does take a crap. Otherwise don't waste your money on any other fuel system just keep it stock till you can get that one. Running two separate pressure systems for the cp3/cp4 combo is really not necessary either.

Do what Dallas says. Other wise you will have to use IDS to re program the dual alternators. Not really necessary.


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Thanks for the info Morgan. I'm waiting on ups to bring the new water pump so I can get started. I know we discussed this on the phone. But I forgot you recommend calibration one or calibration two. I will be getting custom tunes real shortly.
 

CATDiezel

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If it is truly 1500 watts as stated by what I found that is 125amps of LOAD!!! on a 12volt system. 111 amps on 13.5volts.

you had better get a HD single alternator and I believe those are 200amps.

Im not very familiar with the supplimental heaters at all... maybe someone else can chime in.

Whats going to be the kicker is how many amps the truck alone draws... i.e. blower motor. lights. sound system... ect.ect.ect.ect....

Its going to be a stretch on a single 200amp alternator. youll be close~~ to maxing that alternator out with supplimental heat on and other accessories going, if you can disconnect the supplimental heater you will be safe with a single.
 
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CATDiezel

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Yeah I would be curious if you have a 200amp alternator with supplemental heater.
 
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Window sticker says extra heavy duty alt. This picture is the only thing that had any sort of markings.
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I feel like a dumb ass mine only had a single HD alternator. I don't know why I thought it had duals. I thought I remember reading it on the window sticker and never looked.
 

CATDiezel

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I suppose it's not a stretch after all on a 200 amp alternator then. That thing is a beast in a small package!

I pulled up a brochure from 2014 Ford superduty. It did list the HD alternator as acceptable for the supplemental heater. Cool.
 

maxxedout

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The module that controls the supplemental electric heater is designed to prevent the electric heater from overloading the charging system. If there are other electrical loads, the module will back off the heater, so that the alternator operates at no more than 85% of it's maximum capacity. If the alternator reaches 95% of its output capacity, the module will completely shut down the electric heater.
 
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