Billet WWII into BW S366?

SEABEE08FX4 · Jan 28, 2014

If you swap wheels I'd recommend having it rebalanced before you run it.

SEABEE08FX4 · Jan 28, 2014

strokin'_tatsch said:
This just blew my mind hole. I didn't know HTT had 67.7 FMW wheels in the S300 platform until now when I had to search for that turbo combination. That makes life difficult for me now when it comes to deciding on a turbo. LOL That should be an awesome turbo for the 160/100-250/100 injector crowd that is doing a lot of towing..

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337

I'm running an HTT S371, fantastic turbo. Might be the hot ticket for some of you guys running bigger injectors.

jwlandry · Jan 28, 2014

JCart said:
What size exhaust housing .91 A/R? Good to hear you're pleased with it!

jrc

yes. 91 housing.

jwlandry · Jan 28, 2014

SEABEE08FX4 said:
If you swap wheels I'd recommend having it rebalanced before you run it.

Who balances turbos?

Ad8 PRODIGY · Jan 28, 2014

jwlandry said:
Who balances turbos?

All I know of is mpd recently got a machine that does the turbo or the wheel itself. Not sure at the moment. Its on their fb page

SEABEE08FX4 · Jan 28, 2014

Most any local turbo shop should have a balancing machine.

sootie · Feb 3, 2014

jwlandry said:
Who balances turbos?

Barder Turbo Services.

vendor on here...

Powerstroke Cowboy · Feb 3, 2014

SEABEE08FX4 said:
If you swap wheels I'd recommend having it rebalanced before you run it.

This is a common miss conception. It all depends on what model or brand the turbo is..

Yes to balance them as a whole is good. But some of the major turbo maker's only component ( ie, the comp wheel is balance in of itself and the exhaust wheel and shaft are balanced as a component being there are one part) balance there parts. They do not balance them as a whole..

Garrett component balances there turbos.

Don't get me wrong I agree it is a good practice to balance them as a whole. Just not needed for most applications.

SEABEE08FX4 · Feb 4, 2014

David@BSDP said:
This is a common miss conception. It all depends on what model or brand the turbo is..

Yes to balance them as a whole is good. But some of the major turbo maker's only component ( ie, the comp wheel is balance in of itself and the exhaust wheel and shaft are balanced as a component being there are one part) balance there parts. They do not balance them as a whole..

Garrett component balances there turbos.

Don't get me wrong I agree it is a good practice to balance them as a whole. Just not needed for most applications.

If it were my truck or a customers truck it would get balanced as an assembly, its the only way to do it right. You can balance a wheel and then balance a tire separately but put them together and have them not balance out after they are assembled together for example.

Just my .02 if it were my ride.

Swaan · Feb 6, 2014

FWI. I just had a ww2 put in a brand new box 366 with a .91 housing. Going to try it out this weekend. Let you know how it performed

JCart · Feb 7, 2014

Swaan said:
FWI. I just had a ww2 put in a brand new box 366 with a .91 housing. Going to try it out this weekend. Let you know how it performed

Saaaweeet.... Will be watching for comments. Get your injectors in too?

Mine have landed from PIS and I have my T500 and new IPR, UVC harness and some other engine trinkets from RiffRaff just landed. Just waiting on reprogrammed chip, weather to warm up some and still have this fawken flu to kill off. Gonna also install the steel inserts in the HPOP bolt holes while I'm their.

Looking forward to your comments Re your WWII / 366

J

Swaan · Feb 7, 2014

Got them in and engines running. Just waiting on drive shafts , should have them today.
Probley be doing the maiden engine break in tommorow.
Thinkng I might hook on to my 8000lb tt and hit the hwy to seat those new rings. We don't want a oil burner!! Lol
So far new injectors and engine run real smoooooooth. Real responsive on the pedal too!!
My chip comes back Monday from Matt but word is it should run just fine for now on stock programming. According to Tim at pis.

uw mitch · Feb 7, 2014

Swaan said:
Got them in and engines running. Just waiting on drive shafts , should have them today.
Probley be doing the maiden engine break in tommorow.
Thinkng I might hook on to my 8000lb tt and hit the hwy to seat those new rings. We don't want a oil burner!! Lol
So far new injectors and engine run real smoooooooth. Real responsive on the pedal too!!
My chip comes back Monday from Matt but word is it should run just fine for now on stock programming. According to Tim at pis.

I'd be interesting in hearing what you think of the S366 with WWII versus the LASB.

~Mitch

Swaan · Feb 7, 2014

Your not kidding Mitch. The 366 got some big shoes to fill. I know it's not going to be as quick to spool as the lasb because of the bigger turbine but I'm thinking the ww2 comp wheel will help with that. Was going to go 467 but have heard it's a tight fit in a obs. Should have it on road tommorow shifting gears tryin it out. Will let you know.

mandkole · Feb 8, 2014

JCart said:
Gonna also install the steel inserts in the HPOP bolt holes

?? I understand the purpose, but there isnt that much load on the bolts since they thread into aluminum also. Are guys getting results from it?

JCart · Feb 8, 2014

I think the gear cut and rotation as well as pump collar where it mounts holds it in place. Results meaning do threaded steel inserts work? Yes they are just a more robust heli coil. You drill over size, tap, screw in steel insert so it's just deeper than front cover HPOP mounting surface. My understanding is these are used all the time when bolts strip the aluminum front cover. Thought I'd do it as a preventative, while I'm in there.

jrc

mandkole · Feb 8, 2014

oh, a helicoil. I guess it sounded more like a sleeve to support/limit the fastener clamp. Im not sure what I was thinking, but helicoil was not it. :doh:

JCart · Feb 9, 2014

mandkole said:
oh, a helicoil. I guess it sounded more like a sleeve to support/limit the fastener clamp. Im not sure what I was thinking, but helicoil was not it. :doh:

As the HPOP bolts into the aluminum front cover, I thought as I already have off I may as well put the steel E-Z Lok thread repair inserts in. Outside threads are 1/2"-13 tpi and inside are M8-1.25. Drill bit is 27/64th and of course the tap is 1/2-13. I bought a really short drill bit and with 18volt small frame drill shouldn't be too challenging to do I hope. The outside of the inserts already have a adhesive on them. Sort of preventative stripping mashing strategy....

jrc