Built motor options

[TyCorr]

What are Y'all hillbillies doing to your motors?

Rebuilding it like normal but putting billet rods in? Or we talking bed plates and the whole 9?

I'm running 250/200s. Would like to turn them up with less worry. Maybe even compound them. Iiiiiiif I ever went bigger on injectors it'd be a 300/300...my truck is a driver, a hauler, and an occasional tow beotch. I think I'd tow more often if there wasn't always something wrong with it.
I got a guy that has built tooooons of motors for people I know. Been doing tons of head/stud jobs on sick-fos. He said he can do a girdle, hardblok, and billet rods.

I'm almost thinking I'd be better off going to swamps and knowing it's gonna be perfect.

I've seen some bad luck lately and wondered what everybody was doing and having luck with.

I have rebuilt a 7.3 before but it was a stock kit. Nothing fancy. But this is a different scenario.

If you've built up, speak up. Maybe we can get a "recipe" of sorts to take the guess work out of it.

So far we know that everything up to and including 250/200s can be ran with a stock fr motor with some cylinder head fortification. Namely those cheap azz springs, hd pushrods, and studs typically if you plan to hammer it occasionally. I don't really wanna get into support mods other than ones that relate directly to the engine and block.

 

[psduser1]

Say it ain't so...:thumbsup:

I've discussed this with golfer and Hotrodtractor, concerning 300/200%, compounded, for a towrig.

Both suggested nearly identical setups.
Bore as necessary
Balance
Balancer-ati, fluidampner, whatever
Hardblock, 1/3-1/2 fill
Delipped and coated pistons
Billet rods, your brand of choice
Stock grind cam, unless it's for high rpm competition use
Beehive springs
Pushrods
Studs
Or a set of swamps (or other?) heads
Big oil, although that may vary slightly, depending on hp goal and use

I think the devil would be in the machinework, personally. Ballpark price, and I already have the injectors and atmo turbo on the shelf, would be about 12k, for what I discussed with them. I have the facilities and abilities to assemble it at the house, so that wasn't included in cash outlay.
I can't give up the reliability for the hp, so those cool parts are on the shelf, still.
The big money parts seem to become way more important, when you actually start using the fuel available down low, with a 200% or bigger nozzle.

 

[Layson]

Ty, I would buy that 7.3 that is for sell with the WOP engine in it and run it...LOL

 

[TyCorr]

Ty, I would buy that 7.3 that is for sell with the WOP engine in it and run it...LOL

My truck is kinda the important part...I hear you though Layson..

 

[ghohouston]

Ty, I would buy that 7.3 that is for sell with the WOP engine in it and run it...LOL

That's a hell of an idea

 

[TyCorr]

@psduser...I think with compounds and twin termies, my 250/200s will be fiiiine. They aren't bad with just a tiny termie, lol, and a 38r. It could simply use more air though.

Hopefully Dave or Jason will bop in and fluff these potatoes.

 

[TyCorr]

Who has actually done this?

Maddiesel built a br motor that was compounded but I don't know what ever happened as he offloaded it quick.

 

[pullandpray]

300/200 I can't see you needing much more than billet Rods and ofcourse same with any engine good builder check the crank deck etc.. Hp won't be through the roof. Not like 400/400 compounds

 

[HS-MotorsportsZane]

I still have the fully built 7.3L Lightning engine for sale.........Just saying

 

[Layson]

Who has actually done this?

Maddiesel built a br motor that was compounded but I don't know what ever happened as he offloaded it quick.

Most the guys around me that have spent the money on a motor build from a shop all have cracked blocks now....LOL Spent tons of money and nothing to show for it.

I would have to personally know the builder and trust them. Otherwise I would pony up and go with someone like Swamps.

But then I think about the fact that it is a 7.3 and really why go that far with it. I am over the hp bug the older I get. The more I would like it just to start everytime or run perfect all the time...LOL. Just be dependable. LOL

 

[m j]

Dependable 600 hp

 

[Powerstroker7.3]

I went with Carrillo rods
Delipped pistons
Stage 1 cam from Gearhead
Ff 350/200
Mild head port
Beehive springs
Stage 2 pushrods
Fluidampner
Comp 72mm ball bearing
Motor was bored .02 over
Arp head studs and main studs
Girdle
Homemade gen 3
I think this is everything in my build. I was going for a high hp daily driver and I didn't want to ever worry about throwing a rod with a forged motor.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[psduser1]

Most the guys around me that have spent the money on a motor build from a shop all have cracked blocks now....LOL Spent tons of money and nothing to show for it.

I would have to personally know the builder and trust them. Otherwise I would pony up and go with someone like Swamps.

But then I think about the fact that it is a 7.3 and really why go that far with it. I am over the hp bug the older I get. The more I would like it just to start everytime or run perfect all the time...LOL. Just be dependable. LOL

Kinda where I'm getting.

It wasn't the big hp numbers that kept coming up in conversation, it was the ability to make big cylinder pressure (torque) numbers with big nozzles and compounds that drove the reliability question,ty.
I think a decent right foot would go a long ways towards helping everything, and Charles make 6+ last, so it can be done. To some degree, anyway, lol.
Not sure it'll be for 200k miles , either.
My concerns were more to do with the supporting parts, honestly. Can't go to o'rielly and pick up a Bts dual pump, now can we, lol.
Id love to build a 600 hp 7.3 that would last 150 miles, doing what some of us do.opcorn:

 

[psduser1]

I still have the fully built 7.3L Lightning engine for sale.........Just saying

Just stop:fustrate:


:thumbsup:

 

[cbf9703]

I've discussed this with golfer and Hotrodtractor, concerning 300/200%, compounded, for a towrig.

Both suggested nearly identical setups.
Bore as necessary
Balance
Balancer-ati, fluidampner, whatever
Hardblock, 1/3-1/2 fill
Delipped and coated pistons
Billet rods, your brand of choice
Stock grind cam, unless it's for high rpm competition use
Beehive springs
Pushrods
Studs
Or a set of swamps (or other?) heads
Big oil, although that may vary slightly, depending on hp goal and use

I think the devil would be in the machinework, personally. Ballpark price, and I already have the injectors and atmo turbo on the shelf, would be about 12k, for what I discussed with them. I have the facilities and abilities to assemble it at the house, so that wasn't included in cash outlay.
I can't give up the reliability for the hp, so those cool parts are on the shelf, still.
The big money parts seem to become way more important, when you actually start using the fuel available down low, with a 200% or bigger nozzle.

This minus the compounds.... for now :naughty: and definitely head work, not 'or'. The machine work is definitely the devil, not only on quality, but on getting your chit back together in a timely manner.

Sure, not as reliable as stock power with low miles, but the HP hasn't made mine any less reliable than my high mileage milder built trucks.

 

[TyCorr]

I agree with Lawson on turning the key and driving day in and day out. That's ideal.

But even a set of 80 over nozzled whatever will tear a motor apart used as intended.

Jake(Lincoln locker) is a great example. He had a good fr motor. Added every reliability mod known to man and those puny a codes with whatever nozzles tore that motor up. Dd'ing it and pulling his camper. That's not really abusive.

it'd be nice to get it overbuilt and reserve the right to run heavier fuel if desired. I like my setup but with that twisted trans I had I'm pretty sure the next weak spot was the fr.

I think I could be happy with a set of tims 175/80s if it afforded me reliability as opposed to the 250/2. Which in my opinion, should be tuneable for daily driving at this point.

 

[02BigD]

Who has actually done this?

Maddiesel built a br motor that was compounded but I don't know what ever happened as he offloaded it quick.

Having "done that" other than compounds; buy the engine below, smile when the crate shows up, throw it in, and enjoy life.

I still have the fully built 7.3L Lightning engine for sale.........Just saying

 

[mandkole]

Most the guys around me that have spent the money on a motor build from a shop all have cracked blocks now....LOL Spent tons of money and nothing to show for it.

I would have to personally know the builder and trust them. Otherwise I would pony up and go with someone like Swamps.

But then I think about the fact that it is a 7.3 and really why go that far with it. I am over the hp bug the older I get. The more I would like it just to start everytime or run perfect all the time...LOL. Just be dependable. LOL

werd.. I just love driving the truck and am way over the hp thing. Hearing the turbo a little and being set in the seat a little is all I need.

I agree with Lawson on turning the key and driving day in and day out. That's ideal.

But even a set of 80 over nozzled whatever will tear a motor apart used as intended.

Jake(Lincoln locker) is a great example. He had a good fr motor. Added every reliability mod known to man and those puny a codes with whatever nozzles tore that motor up. Dd'ing it and pulling his camper. That's not really abusive.

it'd be nice to get it overbuilt and reserve the right to run heavier fuel if desired. I like my setup but with that twisted trans I had I'm pretty sure the next weak spot was the fr.

I think I could be happy with a set of tims 175/80s if it afforded me reliability as opposed to the 250/2. Which in my opinion, should be tuneable for daily driving at this point.

I wished there was a better handle on what kills them. My theory is revolving around smaller frame turbos that are over fueled enough to make them light real fast and early. Shock loading them more with pressure.

 

[02BigD]

I went with Carrillo rods
Delipped pistons
Stage 1 cam from Gearhead
Ff 350/200
Mild head port
Beehive springs
Stage 2 pushrods
Fluidampner
Comp 72mm ball bearing
Motor was bored .02 over
Arp head studs and main studs
Girdle
Homemade gen 3
I think this is everything in my build. I was going for a high hp daily driver and I didn't want to ever worry about throwing a rod with a forged motor.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Basically a twin of my setup, except I'm running a billet wheel 71. As far as your worry, the "mild build" cryo'd forged rod set up I had prior, bent 3 rods with 100% nozzle hybrids...

 

[bruce]

Yep I'd buy the truck with the wop engine in it, do a switcheroo with your trucks engine and you'd be in a nice built engine for prolly 3-4k