Castastrophic oil cooler ruptured!!? and egr cooler

junglejoe

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Ok guys.. some weird chit going on here. I found another piece of that metal in the oil side of the OEM cooler..WTF!!?
So if the oil cooler came apart internally, which apparently is has.. can those pieces of metal get into the engine or would they be blocked by the oil filter?
 

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6.0 Tech

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No, its really not. Thats the only thing i can think of ff hand that is that big though, i goess maybe from the old stc fitting, but i find it hard to believe that it wouldve lasted as lng as it has in there.
 

junglejoe

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I'm going to look at a lifter and compare the retaining clip.. IF this is a lifter retaining clip, how could the truck still be running perfect?
I didn't see any metal in the oil filter, I was looking at it yesterday.
How hard is it to do a set of lifters in the trucks?
 

junglejoe

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Well,I have looked at (pics) injector retraining clips, stc fittings clips, lifter retaining clips ect..


Has anyone ever looked inside of an oil cooler personally? How is it put together? Is the clips in it? Is there anyway possible that this metal is from a ruptured oil cooler? I'm cutting the bitch open after I get off work today..

If the lifters has broken, might as well send the whole damn truck to the shop to get head studs done and gaskets and new lifters.. F*^k!
 

6.0 Tech

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I'm going to look at a lifter and compare the retaining clip.. IF this is a lifter retaining clip, how could the truck still be running perfect?
I didn't see any metal in the oil filter, I was looking at it yesterday.
How hard is it to do a set of lifters in the trucks?

If its just the retaining clip, there could be enough pressure from the push rod keeping yhe lifter together. It also may not have damaged the cam. In essence, this is probably as lucky as you will get with a lifter failure, and the fact that it got caught early will probably save a ton of money.

I have seen tcut aways of coolers, they look like radiators, i dont recall any clips in them.

As far as replacing lifters, they are not bad. The heads have to come off, but they are not too bad.

Good luck buddy, you need anymore help just ask.
 

junglejoe

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If its just the retaining clip, there could be enough pressure from the push rod keeping yhe lifter together. It also may not have damaged the cam. In essence, this is probably as lucky as you will get with a lifter failure, and the fact that it got caught early will probably save a ton of money.

I have seen tcut aways of coolers, they look like radiators, i dont recall any clips in them.

As far as replacing lifters, they are not bad. The heads have to come off, but they are not too bad.

Good luck buddy, you need anymore help just ask.

Thanks man! This fuggin sucks! I had planned on having the Studs done this year ,( planned,I had a plan LOL) looks like it's going to be now. Guess I could drain all the oil out of the oil pan, slide my magnet up in the hole to try and find some more of this mysterious metal pieces. I refuse to let this get me down.. chit happens! I'm going to start a thread on these metal pieces, maybe someone has had this happen or knows exactly what it could be.. worth a shot!
 

6.0 Tech

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Well the best laid plans... And i saw the other thread before this one, so i poste in there the same chit i did earlier here, disregard hat if ya want :shrug:
 

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Ok fixing to put this beech back together.. Since my oil cooler or something ruptured dumping oil in the antifreeze I could not flush the system at all. I have an OEM cooler and bought a cheapy cooler to use for flushing. I was thinking I could put it all back together and use the cheapy for flushing then put the oem cooler on in a couple thousand miles, sound like a good plan?
 

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Well finally got time to start putting the truck back together.. BPD remote mount oil cooler plate installed.. that's the easy part! See that oil filter screen, that's the one under the OEM oil cooler.. does that little amount of dirt seem ok?
 

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slowcoupe

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Ive seen trucks with no gunk like the oil screen I just pulled when I did my cooler/egr. Some with the screens completely blown out and with way more crud than yours. Thats what its there for though. Seeing your thread makes me want to do a BPD kit.

I would definitely use a cheapo for flushing in case it does clog up again. That way you aren't spending 250-300 on an oem cooler.
 

junglejoe

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Yeah.. it's expensive but I know it will clog up again because I couldn't flush it.. and I damn sure didn't want to tear the motor apart again to replace the cooler, more than likely a couple times until I get all the oil and sludge out.
 

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Pull the block plugs while flushing, and flush with simple gree 1/2 gallon at a time, probably 4 times. Block plugs are 8mm allens, drivers side you can get at, passenger you gotta drop the starter.

To flush, remove t stat, put in simple green, top off with water, run at 1200 rpm for 10-15 min after at operating temp. Then pull 1 block plug, put hise into heater hose on passenger side of motor (under alternator) and flush for 10-15 min. Re install block plug and pull the other one. Repeat procedure with both gallons of simple green. If still not completely clean, get more simple green. Once oil residue stops coming out, then flush using same procedure, but with fords vc9 to remove iron deposits from block. After complete, replace t stat and probably degas due to baffling trapping oil. You may need to repeat procedure at next oil change as well depending on how bad it was.
 

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Pull the block plugs while flushing, and flush with simple gree 1/2 gallon at a time, probably 4 times. Block plugs are 8mm allens, drivers side you can get at, passenger you gotta drop the starter.

To flush, remove t stat, put in simple green, top off with water, run at 1200 rpm for 10-15 min after at operating temp. Then pull 1 block plug, put hise into heater hose on passenger side of motor (under alternator) and flush for 10-15 min. Re install block plug and pull the other one. Repeat procedure with both gallons of simple green. If still not completely clean, get more simple green. Once oil residue stops coming out, then flush using same procedure, but with fords vc9 to remove iron deposits from block. After complete, replace t stat and probably degas due to baffling trapping oil. You may need to repeat procedure at next oil change as well depending on how bad it was.
Take the thermostat out as in leave the radiator hose off and run it? Or just take the thermo out and hook the hose back up to the housing?
It was pretty bad, straight black oil in the degas bottle.
 

6.0 Tech

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Take the thermostat out of the housing, and put the housing back on the front cover. Put the hose back on so you have a closed system.
 

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Take the thermostat out of the housing, and put the housing back on the front cover. Put the hose back on so you have a closed system.

Cool.. That's what I should have asked.. Closed system. Gotcha now..
 

slowcoupe

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Yea the thermostat housing is kind of a pain to get off. The most forward fuel line needs to be undone to get a socket onto the rear of the 2 1/2" bolts(if I remember correctly that is their size). I was able to remove mine without taking out the air box or intercooler pipe on the driver side. DO NOT remove the oring gasket from the housing. Doing so will cause it to stretch terribly and it will not insert properly going back in and will leak from there when up to temp.

Once you get the thermo/housing out your going to depress the thermostat spring and pry/slide the bottom portion out of the slots on the actual housing. It looks at first as it is one solid unit but they do come apart. Once that is removed you can reinstall the housing to the block.
 

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