CCLB Traction Bar Install Questions

TyCorr · Nov 28, 2016

I drill frames all the time and if you go get bits at fastenal a cordless Milwaukee will penetrate the frame in seconds.

8WR_ZJ · Nov 28, 2016

I use a step bit plugged into my 1/4 hex drive impact. Unreal how fast you can drill a 1 inch hole in a frame or anything. Plus with the impact feature of the gun you don't even have to push hard it does all the work for you.

dsberman94 · Nov 28, 2016

8WR_ZJ said:
I use a step bit plugged into my 1/4 hex drive impact. Unreal how fast you can drill a 1 inch hole in a frame or anything. Plus with the impact feature of the gun you don't even have to push hard it does all the work for you.

Good trick. Are you talking about a screw impact gun or an automotive grade impact?

8WR_ZJ · Nov 28, 2016

Its just an 18v dewalt one. I think its really called an impact driver. I like it because its really short and light and can get in some awkward places.

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Jomax · Nov 28, 2016

8WR_ZJ said:
I use a step bit plugged into my 1/4 hex drive impact. Unreal how fast you can drill a 1 inch hole in a frame or anything. Plus with the impact feature of the gun you don't even have to push hard it does all the work for you.

That what I used, along with Milwaukee drill bits, their most expensive ones.

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UNBROKEN · Nov 28, 2016

TyCorr said:
I drill frames all the time and if you go get bits at fastenal a cordless Milwaukee will penetrate the frame in seconds.

That's what I was thinking. I used good bits and a cordless 1/2" drill and it was nothing to drill the frame. Started at 3/16" and worked my way up.

Kxc · Nov 28, 2016

Great thread, definitely will be referencing this. Just ordered a set today from Midwest , shout out to Jared for all the help!

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TyCorr · Nov 28, 2016

UNBROKEN said:
That's what I was thinking. I used good bits and a cordless 1/2" drill and it was nothing to drill the frame. Started at 3/16" and worked my way up.

I get the 19/64 all the time for drilling out aluminum topside rivets and i know for a facti can shove it through a truck frame in about 7 or 8 seconds in a 18v cordless milwaukee drill. I wont ever use cheap tools again. Life is just too short lol.

Im not sure the brand but i can check. They are unreal bits. I picked up 20 of the 19/64 last week and it was close to 500 bucks. But if you had ten holes to drill in a frame one bit would get it and be worth the 22 bucks.

I was trying to drill a steel handrail with "some real good Deeeewalt golds" last week. This older guy says dewalt weird and he thinks those 20 piece bit sets are high quality. Anyway, i melted his 5/16 in about ten seconds. Puahed hard and it cut briefly and then you could just feel it die. Melted. LOL I told him "get your junk off my job". LOL

Kxc · Nov 29, 2016

TyCorr said:
I get the 19/64 all the time for drilling out aluminum topside rivets and i know for a facti can shove it through a truck frame in about 7 or 8 seconds in a 18v cordless milwaukee drill. I wont ever use cheap tools again. Life is just too short lol.

Im not sure the brand but i can check. They are unreal bits. I picked up 20 of the 19/64 last week and it was close to 500 bucks. But if you had ten holes to drill in a frame one bit would get it and be worth the 22 bucks.

I was trying to drill a steel handrail with "some real good Deeeewalt golds" last week. This older guy says dewalt weird and he thinks those 20 piece bit sets are high quality. Anyway, i melted his 5/16 in about ten seconds. Puahed hard and it cut briefly and then you could just feel it die. Melted. LOL I told him "get your junk off my job". LOL

A high quality cobalt bit is the only way to go. Nothing at a big box store will last

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TyCorr · Nov 29, 2016

Heres the efffin muthaeffas that i use. I buy 1/8 and 5/8 from them too.

WHY NOT · Nov 29, 2016

I got a bunch of fastneal drill bits that are dull as hell. When they are new they cut like crazy though.

gnxtc2 · Nov 29, 2016

Norseman drill bits.....FTW

Billy T.
[email protected]

TyCorr · Nov 29, 2016

gnxtc2 said:
Norseman drill bits.....FTW

Billy T.
[email protected]

You know the drill!

Jomax · Nov 29, 2016

TyCorr said:
You know the drill!

Haha

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TyCorr · Nov 29, 2016

Jomax said:
Haha

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That was not intentional! Good catch! Thats one of my lines "you know the drill"

Kxc · Dec 12, 2016

Did you guys upgrade your U-bolts to 3/4" ? Or are they larger on the 350 and 450s? Getting ready to put the bars on and I read where they recommend going with 3/4". My F250 seems to be 5/8"

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Sterling6.7 · Dec 12, 2016

At 24,000 miles, I just reused mine. Pretty sure they are 5/8".

WHY NOT · Dec 12, 2016

I put 3/4" on mine when I did traction blocks.

Kxc · Dec 12, 2016

WHY NOT said:
I put 3/4" on mine when I did traction blocks.

Did you have to change the top plate ?

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WHY NOT · Dec 12, 2016

My bolts are flipped upright now with the adjustable top plate and traction block on the truck. I didn't just use the under mounts and went higher so I had to get new U bolts anyways. Just using the under mount system I'm not sure if you need new top plates or not. Good question for Jared.