finding high egt

brownbros-ben · Jun 2, 2014

Hey, info for truck

studded , egr delete, 190/75 warren sticks, 66 vgt mad turbo, afe innercooler tubes, bd diesel manifolds.

Question is , how much does a aftermarket innercooler make a difference on egt? I only have had this set up for month now but egt are to high.

Old set up 155/stock tips ,stock turbo hwy temps would be 750-950 sometimes 1000-1200 on big hills.(towing or not)

New set is 900-1100* up hill 1200 put foot in to it and 12-1350+* I did a hwy trip on weekend and temp held at 1100* for long times. At 120 km/h, . My oil and coolant were fine, -coolant stayed around 185-194*f and oil about 8 to 12* hotter.

Will a banks innercooler system with there big pipes bring egt down to the 900- 1000* ,
Also does anyone think that the new bd manifolds being thinker are causing my probe to read hotter? (as oil and coolant temp are fine no change)

any info would be great. as now I am thinking if I cant get it lower I may sell sticks and try 175 s

sootie · Jun 2, 2014

whos tuning?

any boost or exhaust leaks?

KCTurbos · Jun 2, 2014

Assuming you have no leaks or any other issues...

larger turbos will run a little hotter... it is just the nature of the beast. Anyone who tells you that running a larger turbo lowers your cruising egts does not understand the very basic fundamentals of turbo theory.

Larger nozzles also tend to run a little hotter while cruising. You will not get any lower of cruising egts with 190s vs 175s. Heck you could even drop down to 155/75s and it would not lower your cruising egts. You could drop down to a 190/30 and it will help a little bit.

Your nozzles and big turbo is what is affecting your egts so much.

I will post up some info on how to search for and inspect boost/exhaust leaks

KCTurbos · Jun 2, 2014

Exhaust leaks are a big problem. Bigger turbos will usually make leaks worse. Check the ypipe bellows and the ypipe to turbo connection. Those are very common. An easy way to check it would be to have someone stick the truck in drive, hold the brake, and give it some gas. Push the pedal as hard as you can without causing the truck to move. Look for any smoke coming out from behind the turbo. If you see any smoke then you need to find and fix the leak.

Boost leaks are also a big problem. The most common areas are the boots on the charge pipe, plastic ends on the intercooler, and the plastic hot side charge pipe on the drivers side. If you have a plastic charge pipe on your drivers side then replace it ASAP. They will not hold up under high boost. You can check for boost leaks in the same way as an exhaust leak. MAKE SURE THE TRUCK IS COLD so you don't burn yourself. Have someone stick the truck in drive, hold the brake, and give it some gas. Push the pedal as hard as you can without causing the truck to move. Use your hand to follow the lines from the turbo to the intercooler and then from the intercooler to the intake manifold. Feel for any leaks. Some people use soapy water too. There is also a special tool that you can buy that makes this process much easier, it is actually used to pressurize the system.

Pull and check all of the following sensors. Use your programmer to make sure they are reading right.

MAP sensor located on passenger side by the air box. Make sure the tube going from the sensor to the motor is not cracked. Make sure the tube and sensor are clean and not plugged.

MAF sensor is located between the air filter and turbo. make sure it is clean and plugged in.

EBP sensor is located off the exhaust manifold on the drivers side. There is a tube going from the exhaust manifold to the sensor. It is very common to clog and have issues. Clean out the tube and make sure the sensor is not clogged.

IAT sensor is connected to the top of the intake manifold near the fuel bowl. Pull it out and make sure it is clean. It is very common to get covered in crap. Clean it and make sure it is connected right.

Baro sensor is located under the dashboard. Make sure it is plugged in and reading right.

VGT solenoid. The vgt wire/pigtail are very common to have cracks, slices, and breaks in it, especially right where it plugs into the solenoid. Double check everything to make sure it is working right. An easy way to check and see if it is working right is while the truck is running. plug and unplug the sensor. You should be able to hear the exhaust sound changing when you do that.

These don't relate directly to boost but it is still a good thing to check. They can really hurt performance.
ICP sensor
IPR
FICM (make sure voltage is good)

SmokedF747 · Jun 2, 2014

I personally have a Mishimoto intercooler system, with their piping, and noticed my egts dropped 100* or so roughly installing that. I have 300cc conventionals and a s366, so things could get hot fast, and I cruise at like 825-1000* (including hills and stuff) at like 65mph and wide open I see 1300 degrees, maybe 1350*. again thats just my experience, may not work for you, but it did for me, i have the no limit 5 inch cold air intake (somewhat new, just came out a month ago or so) and mishimoto intercooler piping and intercooler, and a 4 inch downpipe to 5 inch exhaust.

alradco · Jun 2, 2014

KCTurbos said:
Exhaust leaks are a big problem. Bigger turbos will usually make leaks worse. Check the ypipe bellows and the ypipe to turbo connection. Those are very common. An easy way to check it would be to have someone stick the truck in drive, hold the brake, and give it some gas. Push the pedal as hard as you can without causing the truck to move. Look for any smoke coming out from behind the turbo. If you see any smoke then you need to find and fix the leak.

Boost leaks are also a big problem. The most common areas are the boots on the charge pipe, plastic ends on the intercooler, and the plastic hot side charge pipe on the drivers side. If you have a plastic charge pipe on your drivers side then replace it ASAP. They will not hold up under high boost. You can check for boost leaks in the same way as an exhaust leak. MAKE SURE THE TRUCK IS COLD so you don't burn yourself. Have someone stick the truck in drive, hold the brake, and give it some gas. Push the pedal as hard as you can without causing the truck to move. Use your hand to follow the lines from the turbo to the intercooler and then from the intercooler to the intake manifold. Feel for any leaks. Some people use soapy water too. There is also a special tool that you can buy that makes this process much easier, it is actually used to pressurize the system.

Pull and check all of the following sensors. Use your programmer to make sure they are reading right.

MAP sensor located on passenger side by the air box. Make sure the tube going from the sensor to the motor is not cracked. Make sure the tube and sensor are clean and not plugged.

MAF sensor is located between the air filter and turbo. make sure it is clean and plugged in.

EBP sensor is located off the exhaust manifold on the drivers side. There is a tube going from the exhaust manifold to the sensor. It is very common to clog and have issues. Clean out the tube and make sure the sensor is not clogged.

IAT sensor is connected to the top of the intake manifold near the fuel bowl. Pull it out and make sure it is clean. It is very common to get covered in crap. Clean it and make sure it is connected right.

Baro sensor is located under the dashboard. Make sure it is plugged in and reading right.

VGT solenoid. The vgt wire/pigtail are very common to have cracks, slices, and breaks in it, especially right where it plugs into the solenoid. Double check everything to make sure it is working right. An easy way to check and see if it is working right is while the truck is running. plug and unplug the sensor. You should be able to hear the exhaust sound changing when you do that.

These don't relate directly to boost but it is still a good thing to check. They can really hurt performance.
ICP sensor
IPR
FICM (make sure voltage is good)

Lots of good info there.
Pressure testing your intercooler would be nice too if you can do it. We've seen egt's drop by 150 + degrees with just our intercooler. The stock plastic one will only go so far.

Peter

MorganY · Jun 3, 2014

I'd say it's a little warm. Not terrible

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

mind if I smoke · Jun 3, 2014

How hot can these motors go before problems? Not trying to steel the thread, just curious. What are the limits for long climbs like when towing and what about in short bursts like at the track?

Twan · Jun 4, 2014

I did the banks intercooler and didn't see any difference in egts. Empty or towing.

If you don't have a intake manifold that wil help the most, at least it did for me.

As fare as the safe egts, stock 6.0 pulling will run 1400-1450 on steep hills. That is off of 10 stock trucks years from 03-07 only mod was egt and boost gauges.
I'll hold mine 1300 all day and not worry in the least. I don't let mine over 1400 empty or pulling. Just my rule. Lol.

Stroked777 · Jun 5, 2014

mind if I smoke said:
How hot can these motors go before problems? Not trying to steel the thread, just curious. What are the limits for long climbs like when towing and what about in short bursts like at the track?

Rule of thumb is 1200* continuously, 1400* for no more than 30 seconds, and 1600*+ is ok for a drag run or sled pulll

brownbros-ben · Jun 5, 2014

good info thanks, once I get some more money I think I may try an intercooler, but I was just talking to a buddy and he was saying to see if I can got my tuning adjusted by eric ,

truck has no boost or exhaust leaks , highway its running 4-9 psi boost too