Fuel system discussion

jdgleason · Jul 19, 2012

Thanks gentleman.

simonton6.4 · Mar 15, 2013

Ok so might be beating a dead horse with this thread. I know Y'all touched heavily on big fuel setups but what about smaller setups like what can a stock hpfp handle and what's the best mods to make it hold rp and last? Thanks

Dzchey21 · Mar 15, 2013

Stock nozzles with a stock pump is about all you can do.

simonton6.4 · Mar 15, 2013

U don't think like 30s would be ok or am I just setting myself up for failer and gonna ruin the hpfp? What's the best mods for a stock hpfp I have a ad and that's it on the fuel side?

jdgleason · Mar 15, 2013

simonton6.4 said:
U don't think like 30s would be ok or am I just setting myself up for failer and gonna ruin the hpfp? What's the best mods for a stock hpfp I have a ad and that's it on the fuel side?

Been there done that. Don't waste your time.

http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31754

08BIGRIG · Mar 15, 2013

Bottom line is that if you have stock hpfp stay with stock nozzles. There is no mods for the stock hpfp as we speak of to date.

forcefed6.4ford · Mar 15, 2013

That would depend on what the end goal is based on JD's graphs with the 60's. The 60's come on sooner but peter out up top hp wise. I think it would make a good tow set up if the egts stayed reasonable. Granted I will be installing tp's to help with that.

Dzchey21 · Mar 15, 2013

forcefed6.4ford said:
That would depend on what the end goal is based on JD's graphs with the 60's. The 60's come on sooner but peter out up top hp wise. I think it would make a good tow set up if the egts stayed reasonable. Granted I will be installing tp's to help with that.

That's a good point.

From a labor stand point not worth opening the valve covers to do so.

I will say I would like to.see the same test Jd did with a bigger nozzle

simonton6.4 · Mar 15, 2013

Sorry I didn't mean mods for the hpfp but I ment like supporting mods like a boil delete or does that really do anything and stuff like ported fr do they do anything I know probably no one has spent the money or time to just try the ported fr but in y'all's oppentions is it worth doing or is it a waist or time and money or is it gonna hurt say someone like me that doesn't have a big or dual pump
Sorry if I'm derailing this thread trying to get some good info on the fuel side of things

jdgleason · Mar 15, 2013

Fuel bowl delete and stuff probably wont net you much at all. Unless you want to go to dual pumps, I say leave the fuel system alone.

00Powerstroke · Mar 19, 2013

Anyone ever built there own LPFS for their 6.4? I been searching to try and find something but have yet to find any threads. I want to build something like elites stage 2 kit but i doubt they will send me the plans for it so i can construct it myself lol.

blk350on20s · Mar 20, 2013

I have built my own. A few more people are starting to as well. Basic run down of mine for single pump: Supply side: -8 line from fass to regulator. -8 from regulator to pump. Return side: from motor back to tank: 3 90* -6 male end by 12mm x 1.5 fittings for both heads and pump returns. Run down to frame rail and connect using 2 -6 nitrous Ys. Take single line through frame mounted cooler and back to tank. Fass return is returned into fuel fill neck. I used all braided hose. All can be purchased from summit

SLO DZL · Mar 20, 2013

blk350on20s said:
I have built my own. A few more people are starting to as well. Basic run down of mine for single pump: Supply side: -8 line from fass to regulator. -8 from regulator to pump. Return side: from motor back to tank: 3 90* -6 male end by 12mm x 1.5 fittings for both heads and pump returns. Run down to frame rail and connect using 2 -6 nitrous Ys. Take single line through frame mounted cooler and back to tank. Fass return is returned into fuel fill neck. I used all braided hose. All can be purchased from summit

Do you remember about how much of the braided hose you used?

blk350on20s · Mar 20, 2013

I think you could get away with 15' of -8 and 25 ft of -6. Id prolly get 30 of 6 and 20 of 8 though

Beans71086 · Mar 20, 2013

What cooler did you use, that's something I need to add.

blk350on20s · Mar 20, 2013

I used a 15" single pass trans cooler. Ebay or summit has them.
http://shop.mobileweb.ebay.com/sear...sort=BestMatch&mfs=GOCLK&acimp=0&isNewKw=true

Super08Duty · Mar 20, 2013

This is what I'm using, thanks to Ryan. Temps so far have stayed reasonable. Cooler definitely works, don't put your hand on it after driving for a while, because its using those heat ribs.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1363802144.136531.jpg

Beans71086 · Mar 20, 2013

I like the cooler, need to find another place to stuff it though. My fuel system sits right where your cooler does.

00Powerstroke · Mar 20, 2013

blk350on20s said:
I have built my own. A few more people are starting to as well. Basic run down of mine for single pump: Supply side: -8 line from fass to regulator. -8 from regulator to pump. Return side: from motor back to tank: 3 90* -6 male end by 12mm x 1.5 fittings for both heads and pump returns. Run down to frame rail and connect using 2 -6 nitrous Ys. Take single line through frame mounted cooler and back to tank. Fass return is returned into fuel fill neck. I used all braided hose. All can be purchased from summit

What did you use for a regulator? I was thinking of using an aeromotive pump rather then fass or airdog which would mean i would need filter bases. If i do end up building my own i think im gonna run a sump as well instead of dealing with a drawstraw.

09stroker · Mar 20, 2013

That's how I did my system. Sump to water separator to A-1000 to 2 micron filter to reg. connected to the regulator is the pump feed, the injector and pump return and obviously the return back to tank. Return has a cooler like shown above. Sump to regulator is all -10 and pump feed and return is -8. The injector return was -6.