Loss of oil pressure at idle.

Strokin6.0

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Yeah ill be checking that this week, thanks alot you all have help a bunch.. i guess i, going to just tear it and do head studs and all.. is there a recommendation on lifters and such and what about black diamond head gaskets any good ??? Again thanks to everyone
 

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Im putting an rcd stage one cam, lifters, push rods and 120# valve springs in mine this go around. After pulling the heads and seeing.valve marks on 4 pistons,, id recommend doing springs if you are pushing anything over 35 or so psi. Ive heard swapping to 6.4 pushrods, or going aftermarket, that come as 6.4 length help the lifter live longer, as the plunger is not bottomed out anymore, it sits near the middle of the lifter where it belongs.
 

Strokin6.0

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Ok so up date on this project, pulled the lpop out tonight no signs of scoring what so ever. No metal fragments or nothing.. could a high pressure oil rail leak enough to over work the lpop to give it a low pressure reading, but still have enough pressure in the hpop to keep it running? Just ttying trying to figure something out before i get it toe to the lifters. .
 

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It is typical to have a busted out screen under the oil cooler. I would say 90-95% that i take apart have a busted screen.

Did you ever check base pressure? You could possibly have something else goofy going on low side, like a cracked pickup or something. I would tend to lean toward a plugged pick up going the other way, starving at rpm but fine at idle due to a flow restriction causing the issue up high.
 
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I agree with ctc, i have seen them run at 1 psi before, as long as there is enough flowntgey will run. Are you having any hard starts? There is a ball in the hpop that can fall out and cause this. Also the front cover could be scored causing yhe oil to bypass the pump and not build pressure.

Pulk the oil filter out, and hold down the check valve in the bottom of the bowl with a long screwdriver. Crank it over with the starter wire over by the passenger battery. If it fills up to the threads in 15-20 sec or so, base is probably decent. If not, Try pulling the oil regulator out, which is the 12mm allen on the front cover, kinda pointed off toward the passenger side at a downward angle. See if there is any scoring that you can see in there, as that would be the easiest preliminary check. Either way though you are probably gonna b tearing into it.

As far as turbo play, hese things have a pretty good amount. I think the spec is like .035 up and down and .012 in and out.


If there's no damage on the lpop, pull the hpop and check for that ball to be gone. I totally forgot about that on 03/04.
 

DEEZUZ

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but. a. thumping. intake.............................................................
 
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but. a. thumping. intake.............................................................

I have an 06 in the shop right now that's a no start with thumping from intake, 0 icp will cranking. Pulled oil filter expecting to find no low side but someone put a Motorcraft filter in a Napa cap. Changed filter and as soon it built low side the thumping stopped. HPOP is junk but no more thumping at least.
 
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Im putting an rcd stage one cam, lifters, push rods and 120# valve springs in mine this go around. After pulling the heads and seeing.valve marks on 4 pistons,, id recommend doing springs if you are pushing anything over 35 or so psi. Ive heard swapping to 6.4 pushrods, or going aftermarket, that come as 6.4 length help the lifter live longer, as the plunger is not bottomed out anymore, it sits near the middle of the lifter where it belongs.

6.4 pushrods give the option to surface the heads a little more. If you order a set of Jasper rebuilt heads they come with 6.4 pushrods now.
 

TBagAMouseTrap

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Every time I've seen oil pressure drop at idle it's either been the check valve in the filter housing (missing completely or wrong filter/cap combo) or the sensor itself. I didn't read the entire thread so both of these have suggested already.
 

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