mild or hot street build?

bruce

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Then sell your truck for 15 and use the 20 you'd spend on the engine and trans and buy a 6.4. Prolly still come out cheaper.
 

smoker00

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The funniest setup I had was 250/200 with a mod modified h2e super fun.. I think a s467 would be just as fun with 250's not 650 horse but super fun..
 

Black 02

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I will be doing all my own work so it won't be that much

Better start pricing stuff.

$5k here, $1k there, $2k here..... It doesn't take long. Especially if you have to buy a BTS tranny or equal.

Trust me.... I know. I'm wiping my tears away looking at all the reciepts I have for my truck and it isn't anywhere near 650 hp.

Good Luck
 

rc4wd

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Better start pricing stuff.

$5k here, $1k there, $2k here..... It doesn't take long. Especially if you have to buy a BTS tranny or equal.

Trust me.... I know. I'm wiping my tears away looking at all the reciepts I have for my truck and it isn't anywhere near 650 hp.

Good Luck

Same here, I've added my parts up one time and it was around 10k I beleive. Plus I'm running a manual tranny so I didn't have to spend but 1k on a clutch to make it hold up.
 

brian89

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i dont want to buy a 6.4 at the moment, and whos tuning is better, beans or swamps? i have pretty much decided on an s467 and 350/200's from beans, but i cant decide if i want swamps or beans tuning, input?
 

Homesteader

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i dont want to buy a 6.4 at the moment, and whos tuning is better, beans or swamps? i have pretty much decided on an s467 and 350/200's from beans, but i cant decide if i want swamps or beans tuning, input?

Is your turbo and injectors from Beans? If so then I would go with Beans just my opinion. It would be interested to see how your setup turn out.
 

PowerstrokeJunkie

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The key to building high hp on stock rods is a laggy big single turbo. It wont be fun on the street (responsive) but hold together longer by limiting torque and making power higher in the powerband. A responsive compound setup is capable of making clean power (torque) lower in the RPM band which isnt too friendly on a stock engine.
 

DocBar

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I will be doing all my own work so it won't be that much
Not dissing your mechanic skills, but I'd go with Swamps competition long block or have someone like David Lott build your motor. It's expensive, but those guys know the secrets of building high HP motors that live. The mantra "if ya can't afford to build it right once, you damn sure can't afford to build it twice" is never truer than when dealing with the 7.3L. Keeping a motor alive over 500HP is expensive and you'll likely never reach the level of what newer diesel motors can do.

You might seriously consider getting a 6.4L. They can reach higher HP #'s a lot easier than the 7.3 plus you get all the bells and whistles that come with a newer truck. I love my 7.3 and will never sell it, but I'll probably never buy another one that gets over 400 rwhp. The HEUI is just too limited and expensive.

If you do go ahead and build a big HP motor, research your tuner very carefully. That will be a huge factor in living or dying. Think long and hard on having your tuner of choice keep all of your tunes at less than "all out". Having a strong ~500rwhp truck for years is much better than a ~600rwhp truck for months. Or weeks, Or days.

My 2 cents.
 

TyCorr

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Not dissing your mechanic skills, but I'd go with Swamps competition long block or have someone like David Lott build your motor. It's expensive, but those guys know the secrets of building high HP motors that live. The mantra "if ya can't afford to build it right once, you damn sure can't afford to build it twice" is never truer than when dealing with the 7.3L. Keeping a motor alive over 500HP is expensive and you'll likely never reach the level of what newer diesel motors can do.

You might seriously consider getting a 6.4L. They can reach higher HP #'s a lot easier than the 7.3 plus you get all the bells and whistles that come with a newer truck. I love my 7.3 and will never sell it, but I'll probably never buy another one that gets over 400 rwhp. The HEUI is just too limited and expensive.

If you do go ahead and build a big HP motor, research your tuner very carefully. That will be a huge factor in living or dying. Think long and hard on having your tuner of choice keep all of your tunes at less than "all out". Having a strong ~500rwhp truck for years is much better than a ~600rwhp truck for months. Or weeks, Or days.

My 2 cents.

Can tell you've been down that road. Most guys say they'd take a truck with some stg IIs or small hybrids over an all out just because of the breakage and magnification of.small.problems that you may not notice on a sub 500hp truck.
 

DocBar

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Can tell you've been down that road. Most guys say they'd take a truck with some stg IIs or small hybrids over an all out just because of the breakage and magnification of.small.problems that you may not notice on a sub 500hp truck.
I'm just tired of guys buying a good ole 7.3 and thinking a few $1000 is gonna turn it into a monster. It just ain't gonna happen and it gives builders/tuners/vendors a bad rep when it's overly optimistic expectations that do a motor in.

I keep my motor alive by rarely pushing it to its limits, only pushing it when it's at NOT and being very regimented in proper maintenance.

I also asked Matt to keep the all out tune well below the tru all out of the motor. If I want to go to the strip and show off, I put DI's chip in and haul ass to the tune of high 12's in the 1/4. On a DD basis, I run around 400rwhp with an all out of 500rwho in the race tune. I don't, under any circumstances, race on public streets so 500rwhp is plenty for me. I can **** and git before the **** hits the fan with 500rwhp in most cases.

I have ~$33K in my build, including new parts for the compound set up but not including the primary turbo. That's a bunch of money but my set up should live at the ~700+ RWHP that the compound set up should deliver.
 

Lowdown89

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I'm just tired of guys buying a good ole 7.3 and thinking a few $1000 is gonna turn it into a monster. It just ain't gonna happen and it gives builders/tuners/vendors a bad rep when it's overly optimistic expectations that do a motor in.

I keep my motor alive by rarely pushing it to its limits, only pushing it when it's at NOT and being very regimented in proper maintenance.

I also asked Matt to keep the all out tune well below the tru all out of the motor. If I want to go to the strip and show off, I put DI's chip in and haul ass to the tune of high 12's in the 1/4. On a DD basis, I run around 400rwhp with an all out of 500rwho in the race tune. I don't, under any circumstances, race on public streets so 500rwhp is plenty for me. I can **** and git before the **** hits the fan with 500rwhp in most cases.

I have ~$33K in my build, including new parts for the compound set up but not including the primary turbo. That's a bunch of money but my set up should live at the ~700+ RWHP that the compound set up should deliver.


Very well said, I'm the guy who can never make up his mind and says hey I'm just gonna give her hell until it breaks and after all the cash I have spent on my truck probably close to $15k on 2-3 sets of injectors, and the the other stuff plus having my engine completely rebuilt but with stock forged rods because I was never gonna run it hard,etc and I can say 100% if you plan on having something you can beat on and race all the time at the power levels you say you want then save your money and have a engine built with all good parts the first time ... It really sucks knowing that now to get it the power levels I want to be at of 700-750 on fuel and then whatever I can get out of it on spray. That all that money I originally spent isn't really gonna do me Amy good and I'm going to have to once again throw down a nice chunk of cash to get me where I want to be
 

DocBar

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Very well said, I'm the guy who can never make up his mind and says hey I'm just gonna give her hell until it breaks and after all the cash I have spent on my truck probably close to $15k on 2-3 sets of injectors, and the the other stuff plus having my engine completely rebuilt but with stock forged rods because I was never gonna run it hard,etc and I can say 100% if you plan on having something you can beat on and race all the time at the power levels you say you want then save your money and have a engine built with all good parts the first time ... It really sucks knowing that now to get it the power levels I want to be at of 700-750 on fuel and then whatever I can get out of it on spray. That all that money I originally spent isn't really gonna do me Amy good and I'm going to have to once again throw down a nice chunk of cash to get me where I want to be
Your story is exactly why I bit the bullet and paid to have a motor built. I had heartburn with it at first, with burnt/old harness', but fought through it and have a strong running truck that I can flog when I want to without fear of breakage. I can run with most modified diesels and absolutely tear up stock sports cars. My +8000# truck runs high 12's in the 1/4 as is and will be probably in the low 12's and stronger still, once the compounds are added.

I think my truck is an exception because I had the motor built by DI and it should easily handle my RWHP goals because of that. Once I get used to the compounds, I won't hesitate to spray it to ~1KRWHP. I'll be conservative with the tuning and trust David's internal balancing and prep work. My biggest worry is the valve train at the RPM's needed to get there.
 

Lowdown89

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Your story is exactly why I bit the bullet and paid to have a motor built. I had heartburn with it at first, with burnt/old harness', but fought through it and have a strong running truck that I can flog when I want to without fear of breakage. I can run with most modified diesels and absolutely tear up stock sports cars. My +8000# truck runs high 12's in the 1/4 as is and will be probably in the low 12's and stronger still, once the compounds are added.

I think my truck is an exception because I had the motor built by DI and it should easily handle my RWHP goals because of that. Once I get used to the compounds, I won't hesitate to spray it to ~1KRWHP. I'll be conservative with the tuning and trust David's internal balancing and prep work. My biggest worry is the valve train at the RPM's needed to get there.

You have a good running truck from sure from what I saw the Dyno day at PHP can't wait to see it with the compounds on it!
 

bruce

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DocBar;489883[I said:
]I'm just tired of guys buying a good ole 7.3 and thinking a few $1000 is gonna turn it into a monster[/I]. It just ain't gonna happen and it gives builders/tuners/vendors a bad rep when it's overly optimistic expectations that do a motor in.

I keep my motor alive by rarely pushing it to its limits, only pushing it when it's at NOT and being very regimented in proper maintenance.

I also asked Matt to keep the all out tune well below the tru all out of the motor. If I want to go to the strip and show off, I put DI's chip in and haul ass to the tune of high 12's in the 1/4. On a DD basis, I run around 400rwhp with an all out of 500rwho in the race tune. I don't, under any circumstances, race on public streets so 500rwhp is plenty for me. I can **** and git before the **** hits the fan with 500rwhp in most cases.

I have ~$33K in my build, including new parts for the compound set up but not including the primary turbo. That's a bunch of money but my set up should live at the ~700+ RWHP that the compound set up should deliver.

Thats why i want to get ride of mine. Too many rednecks in the trailer park can get them, throw on a 6pos and roll coal. It used to be cool to show up with the baddest 5 year old truck. Now its cooler to show up with a brand new one.
 

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