My build, looking to make 900

Erikclaw

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Thanks, I will. Is it partially filling the block?

Well they can do that, it was posted a while ago. Combination of sealant I believe, can't remember but I know they came up with a process to help it seal. Partially filling the block will come up high enough to cover the area that cracked. That is one of the main reasons I decided to go with it.
 

B585Ford

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Thanks, I will. Is it partially filling the block?

That really sucks. I hate to hear that.
Don't those studs require less torque? Maybe I have it backwards, but I thought those studs lessened the chance of cracking the block?
 

HD F250

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That sucks, sorry to hear. I am glad to hear they are going to cover the block at least. A perfect opportunity to add few more things for reliability and anything you left off last build. U have to find the positives in this sport...LOL
 

Dzchey21

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Well I figured it out today I have a cracked block....yah!
I thought my front cover was my problem so I replaced it. I pressurized the cooling system and removed the drivers vc. 2nd stud from the back top was seeping coolant from the hole up the stud. I tried teflon paste with no luck.

I started with a reman block so holes were perfectly clean, installed the elite/a1 studs by the book. I have no way of knowing if the block was already like that when I got it or if the stud caused it.
At least I am good friends with the Ford parts manager, he is gonna get me a new short block but it still sucks I have to change it all out again. This thing is gonna kill me.:cursing:

Same exact stud I had coolant running up as well.

Sure wish I knew how to prevent that
 

gman1

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That really sucks. I hate to hear that.
Don't those studs require less torque? Maybe I have it backwards, but I thought those studs lessened the chance of cracking the block?

It doesnt matter what stud you use. Blocks have cracked using all the aftermarket studs.
 

78f100

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I really don't think the stud did it but who knows. I have done several stud jobs with no issue. I wonder if this block was already cracked when I got it but will never know. I did the studs by the book, holes were spotless as it was all new so IDK why it happened.
 

B585Ford

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It doesnt matter what stud you use. Blocks have cracked using all the aftermarket studs.

Ok, let me re-phrase the question. I thought the real H11s are not torqued as tight as the regular ARPs because it is stronger. Since it is torqued to a lower lbs/ft, it would be less likely to crack the block. I already have ARPs, but if ii ever have to remove the heads again, I was going to use the H11s to reduce the chances of cracking the block. I realize there is a risk but I thought it would be less with H11s. Is that incorrect?
 

B585Ford

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I really don't think the stud did it but who knows. I have done several stud jobs with no issue. I wonder if this block was already cracked when I got it but will never know. I did the studs by the book, holes were spotless as it was all new so IDK why it happened.

That would be my assumption...of course, I am not an expert. I do hate to hear it happened to you
 
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Yep drivers side 2nd from rear on top side. I've used different methods to seal these. A good quality thread sealer will be about your best shot. Teflon paste does not harden and stop leaks like a thread sealer will.

Just something I've ran across.


ysajese5.jpg


Hope you get it all straightened out
 

jdgleason

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Ok, let me re-phrase the question. I thought the real H11s are not torqued as tight as the regular ARPs because it is stronger. Since it is torqued to a lower lbs/ft, it would be less likely to crack the block. I already have ARPs, but if ii ever have to remove the heads again, I was going to use the H11s to reduce the chances of cracking the block. I realize there is a risk but I thought it would be less with H11s. Is that incorrect?

This is correct. The torque spec is much lower.
 

78f100

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My ford parts guy is willing to replace the short block, but I still have to swap cams, pistons, and most likely rods. Would you guys trust it if some thread sealer stops it? Or you think its just a temp fix and it will keep cracking? I really just want to enjoy the truck for a little while. I have 3 others that need the cab pulled, so if I can't seal this it will most likely be a while before I can tear it back down.
On a side note I was testing it out last night after I tried another sealer, not sure if its still leaking or not. I am sure I broke my input shaft or t/c though:doh:
Nailed it at 40-45mph spun the tires but when it caught traction BOOM no go no more.
 
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My ford parts guy is willing to replace the short block, but I still have to swap cams, pistons, and most likely rods. Would you guys trust it if some thread sealer stops it? Or you think its just a temp fix and it will keep cracking? I really just want to enjoy the truck for a little while. I have 3 others that need the cab pulled, so if I can't seal this it will most likely be a while before I can tear it back down.
On a side note I was testing it out last night after I tried another sealer, not sure if its still leaking or not. I am sure I broke my input shaft or t/c though:doh:
Nailed it at 40-45mph spun the tires but when it caught traction BOOM no go no more.

It sounds like you have the same luck that I do.
 

Fast-6.0

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Ok, let me re-phrase the question. I thought the real H11s are not torqued as tight as the regular ARPs because it is stronger. Since it is torqued to a lower lbs/ft, it would be less likely to crack the block. I already have ARPs, but if ii ever have to remove the heads again, I was going to use the H11s to reduce the chances of cracking the block. I realize there is a risk but I thought it would be less with H11s. Is that incorrect?

Some of your thinking is correct and some not. The H-11 stud does deliver greater clamp load at the same torque as an ARP or 1722 stud. The thing is at those high torque numbers the ARP and 1722 studs are stretching and not clamping the head tighter, the H-11 would be clamping the head tighter. This also means they are pulling on the block more, stressing it more. Going to an H-11 will not reduce your chances of cracking at all.
 

Corb@CorbinShipping

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My ford parts guy is willing to replace the short block, but I still have to swap cams, pistons, and most likely rods. Would you guys trust it if some thread sealer stops it? Or you think its just a temp fix and it will keep cracking? I really just want to enjoy the truck for a little while. I have 3 others that need the cab pulled, so if I can't seal this it will most likely be a while before I can tear it back down.
On a side note I was testing it out last night after I tried another sealer, not sure if its still leaking or not. I am sure I broke my input shaft or t/c though:doh:
Nailed it at 40-45mph spun the tires but when it caught traction BOOM no go no more.

I sent you a text, I have a billet input, and a DPC and RCD TC, both rfreshed, rady to go, I'll square you up with a smoking deal... Let me know.
 

B585Ford

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Some of your thinking is correct and some not. The H-11 stud does deliver greater clamp load at the same torque as an ARP or 1722 stud. The thing is at those high torque numbers the ARP and 1722 studs are stretching and not clamping the head tighter, the H-11 would be clamping the head tighter. This also means they are pulling on the block more, stressing it more. Going to an H-11 will not reduce your chances of cracking at all.

Ok, thanks. That's good to know.
 

78f100

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Just pulled the trans, found the shaft still all in one piece. Guess i need a converter, pretty sure I'm gonna take the trans to suncoast and have them check it out while its out.

Corb has a dpc and a rcd converter, whitch one should I get from him?
 
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