Not really a build but come look anyway

[Scottbigred]

Trucks going under the knife. Gaskets are apparently no good. Here's some background to start.

Bought the truck with 66K on it, up to 82K now. Had problems right off the bat. Had a radiator replaced by previous owner, had a large coolant look while test driving. Leaked all the coolant out and got pretty darn hot. Temp light going off and what not. Just happened to be on my way back to the dealer. Limped the couple miles back after it happened and they fixed the leak/leaks. 4-5K later had a no power issue, turned out to be a bad EGR temp sensor. Warrantied no problem. Trucks running good at this point so I order a tuner, intake and exhaust. Im like a kid on Christmas, i'm pumped :thumbsup: . Trucks running well so I decide to take a buddy from work for a ride (drives a cummins). It seemed to me that it wasn't making the power that it was a couple days ago. Thought I was going crazy. Well I happened to notice it was low on coolant and for obvious reasons (it was sprayed all over my engine). I cleaned it all off and tried to make it puke again. Guess what, it did.

So here we are, my current mods are the MiniMaxx, S&B intake and diamond eye DPF/DOC delete pipe.

Here's whats going in when the cabs off.

Elite H11 studs
Elite stage one pushrods
Ford gaskets
Flo-Pro EGR delete, intake elbow and cold side pipe
DieselSite Boots
Diamond Eye 5" with 4" DP
And new accessory belts and maybe pulleys if they are needed

I've been getting a lot of squeaking coming from the belts or pulleys, got worse after the puking started. Thinking I got some coolant on them.

I'm thinking I might like a set of ported fuel rails while i'm in there. Are the industrial clamps worth 75$ a piece? River City isn't to far from me so i might just grab the rails and run over there for a day. Also, are the industrial clamps worth 75$ a piece? And maybe I should grab my heads and take them over also and have them check them out. My mechanic is just gonna straight edge them and i'm not exactly comfortable with that. If they end up cracked and I get new heads from ford, is it still worth having them decked?

I would love a Batmowheel while i'm in there but I've pretty much spent my budget already.

So... Ideas, likes, dislikes, things I forgot, things I don't know??

Scott

 

[bigrpowr]

pics ??

 

[Scottbigred]

pics ??

There will be once it gets opened up. Its parked in the toolshed right now because I can't start it :doh: . Waiting to see whats up with my Minimaxx and getting all the parts I ordered in then its going to the dealership.

Here's a pic of the truck though. BTW Black tip or Chrome tip?? I'm gonna use the same 18" long 6" tip Jeff used on his and mount it like it he did. The diamond plate tool box was dumped for a black diamond plate box also.

 

[Scottbigred]

I thought about a set of valve springs from River City, but is it really even worth it at this level? I'm going for reliability but... I'm doing pushrods because they are easy. But i'm not sold on the springs. I realize now would be a great time to do it, but idk.

 

[bigrpowr]

i just wanted to see the color as for springs, i did the elite springs just for safety.

 

[Scottbigred]

i just wanted to see the color as for springs, i did the elite springs just for safety.

10-4 on that. I guess if I go to RCD to get my heads checked out it would be a great time to have them install springs huh. Guess I should just open up the wallet a little more :thumbup: .

Any opinion on the ported rails? Some people claim a difference. I won't be able to tell obviously since so much other stuff is being done at the same time. Only a hundred bucks. But that's money that could go to springs.

 

[BFT]

Most heads are salvageable. I would suggest harden valve seats if the heads get repaired. Valve springs are good and are there for future supporting mods.
For the most part you are onthe right track

 

[Big Angry Hillbilly]

You must have a patient and hourly (not flat-rate) tech working on it.

I wouldn't be too impressed having your truck tying up my stall for an extra two days while I waited for you to bring the heads back. I'd suggest you get another set of heads exchange and just swap em out. There's already few enough guys who will do this sort of work on Ford's dime (I'm assuming you're doing this under warranty). You don't need to make any of 'em regret it.

 

[Scottbigred]

You must have a patient and hourly (not flat-rate) tech working on it.

I wouldn't be too impressed having your truck tying up my stall for an extra two days while I waited for you to bring the heads back. I'd suggest you get another set of heads exchange and just swap em out. There's already few enough guys who will do this sort of work on Ford's dime (I'm assuming you're doing this under warranty). You don't need to make any of 'em regret it.

I understand what your saying, but I don't see how it would be any different then them sending the heads to a machine shop themselves. Which as far as I can tell, is the right way to do it. Yes it is warranty work, but per their request (which i agree is more than fair) i'm kicking in some extra money. Almost an extra two days labor worth of extra money. I just want it done right the first time. If i'm good to go having them straight edged to check for flatness i'll go with it. But I would prefer them 100% flat.

Whats an average cost at a machine shop to get a set of heads straight if they have no cracks? If they are warped past the point of saving, should I still have new heads checked at a machine shop? I would assume yes but im still going to ask.

 

[Erikclaw]

Hardened valve seats for sure, I would say go with the ported rails. The clamps, hard to say. A few have had problems with them earlier on but most haven't needed them. Do whatever you can afford to make sure the heads are good and straight so no need to tear into them again.

 

[Pmac21]

awesome looking truck! :thumbup:

 

[Scottbigred]

Thanks man ^^^

Any ideas on cleaning all the crud out of the intake when its off? Since im getting rid of the EGR coolers and valve?

 

[pog]

engine deagreaser and a pressure washer is what i used.

 

[Rudy's Diesel Performance]

I understand what your saying, but I don't see how it would be any different then them sending the heads to a machine shop themselves. Which as far as I can tell, is the right way to do it. Yes it is warranty work, but per their request (which i agree is more than fair) i'm kicking in some extra money. Almost an extra two days labor worth of extra money. I just want it done right the first time. If i'm good to go having them straight edged to check for flatness i'll go with it. But I would prefer them 100% flat.

Whats an average cost at a machine shop to get a set of heads straight if they have no cracks? If they are warped past the point of saving, should I still have new heads checked at a machine shop? I would assume yes but im still going to ask.

Ford does not machine heads that they take off. You should not need to check or surface the heads if you buy new ones. Normally a clean/check/resurface runs around $200-$250.

 

[Big Angry Hillbilly]

Thanks man ^^^

Any ideas on cleaning all the crud out of the intake when its off? Since im getting rid of the EGR coolers and valve?

I used to send 'em out to the machine shop while I had 'em off and they'd put them in the wash tank. I'd usually like for them to leave it in overnight.

Came back good as new every time. This was usually done on extrene coking cases where it had hung the EGR valve open with hard carbon, but after awhile I started having them all done.

 

[bigrpowr]

I used to send 'em out to the machine shop while I had 'em off and they'd put them in the wash tank. I'd usually like for them to leave it in overnight.

Came back good as new every time. This was usually done on extrene coking cases where it had hung the EGR valve open with hard carbon, but after awhile I started having them all done.

not to derail, but you're a ford tech in canada ? you seem like you have a lot of experience with the 6.4 .

 

[dommel01]

whats the point of the industrial clamps?

 

[mike@haller's]

whats the point of the industrial clamps?

Keeps the high pressure fuel lines from cracking due to vibration. Usually only necessary when you put in an upgraded injection pump.

 

[Scottbigred]

How accessible are the clamps after the cabs back on?

 

[mike@haller's]

How accessible are the clamps after the cabs back on?

Theyre not really accessible at all with the factory heat shields in place. You have to pull the turbos and shields to access them.