Powerstroke Cowboy
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To hone cylinders I use a product called "flex-hone". If you go this route, make sure you use the correct grit for your application.
Pitted cylinders
- Thread starter pechroc1
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Yes i was looking at them. I have another block to try in on. I would start light and work up. Maybe 320? If not enough progress go to 240?
I dont see me doing any damage if i use common sense.
Powerstroke Cowboy
Well-known member
Generally I use 240 grit. The cylinder wall is hard, even with 240 it can be a little difficult to get a good crosshatch. A 120 would work fine, just don't over due it.
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Ditto on the Flex hones. We call them berry bush hones. Much more forgiving than the old 3 stone hones.
Just when you think your up and down motions are fast enough they are not. Also don't run the drill at full speed. Slower the drill spins that means the slower you can move up and down.
Just when you think your up and down motions are fast enough they are not. Also don't run the drill at full speed. Slower the drill spins that means the slower you can move up and down.
So how are you achieving cross hatching?
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As the hone is spinning and you have added generous amounts of lube you move the hone up and down the cylinder at a high rate of speed.
Not a fun job doing all 8, or if you have bad shoulders or elbows.
Random You tube I grabbed. Skip to 2:30 for the actual process.
Process is same for either style hone.
Powerstroke Cowboy
Well-known member
I shoot for a 45 degree cross hatch.
The bigger the bore the slower you want to spin the hone. There's specs on how fast to spin the hone for a given bore size. Of you use flex-hone they have the specs on the rpm for bore size. But that is also dependent on how fast you move the hone up and down the cylinder walls.
I use a cordless drill so its easyer to regulate rpms of the hone.
The bigger the bore the slower you want to spin the hone. There's specs on how fast to spin the hone for a given bore size. Of you use flex-hone they have the specs on the rpm for bore size. But that is also dependent on how fast you move the hone up and down the cylinder walls.
I use a cordless drill so its easyer to regulate rpms of the hone.
Powerstroke Cowboy
Well-known member
It's hard to say from the pictures. It it raised or indented? It could be polished out depending on how it is.
What's wrong with the one in the pickup?
For the price of a cam, you could put in one that works with the seat pressure of shimmed 910s.
With that in mind, I would also put in better push rods with the 910s.
What's wrong with the one in the pickup?
For the price of a cam, you could put in one that works with the seat pressure of shimmed 910s.
With that in mind, I would also put in better push rods with the 910s.
Powerstroke Cowboy
Well-known member
It's not a lobe where the surface rust/corrosion is, unless a bearing journal is called a lobe, but I do agree, depending on what it is. The cam needs to go. This could just be surface stuff from moisture. That round spot looks like where the oil hole in the bearing would be.
If it's a lobe than I agree 100%. Its got to go.
Its not a lobe. You are correct, cowboy. its the journal. Its indented. But technically the bearing has surface to ride on either side of that mark... and force will not be exerted directly on that spot as it would be on a lobe with the pressure from the lifter.
Still not 100% comfortable with that.
It does appear to be where the oil hole would have been on the bearing.
But i still need the truck time to time and if i pull that one its out of commission until i get the one im rebuilding in the truck.
Another option is an assembled block that had been left outside with no heads or front cover... so i dont have much confidence that the cam isnt rusted to sh!t. But im going to get it out anyway and see.
Still not 100% comfortable with that.
It does appear to be where the oil hole would have been on the bearing.
Not sure. The motor in the truck is a question mark. It was from a junk yard with no info on what it came out of. i just needed to get a motor in the truck at the time. And it was free. Didn't have time to go threw it. But it has a healthy smount of blow by. With the turbo and injectors it goes thru alot of oil if my foot is heavy.
But i still need the truck time to time and if i pull that one its out of commission until i get the one im rebuilding in the truck.
Another option is an assembled block that had been left outside with no heads or front cover... so i dont have much confidence that the cam isnt rusted to sh!t. But im going to get it out anyway and see.
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silent64
New member
If you don't have a hone and you aren't sure of how to do it, most machine shops will do that for you, probobly for not much more than what a good hone costs, and you'll never use again.
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I agree that spot on the cam is not important being a bearing journal. In my younger days I strived for perfection and would never have ran it. In my older days I realize I have thrown a lot of money at things that didn't need it.
that spot on the bearing journal does not need to be replaced.
that spot on the bearing journal does not need to be replaced.
Sweet. That was my feeling, but i never rebuilt a motor before.
Im digging the hone job. Its not all out but i may just leave well enough alone here. That was a 220 hone. I guess i can go more course but i don't think it will ever be perfect.
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I wouldn't go any corser. I have run worse and not had oil burning problems.
Powerstroke Cowboy
Well-known member
Nice! That cleaned up good.
There is a reason I like and use the flex-hone. They are a good tool for any shop and almost anyone can use it with great results.
What did you use for honing oil? I use motor oil.
Yep. lubed up the cylinders and the ball hone, put the drill on low and worked the drill as fast as i could for about 10 to 12 strokes each time.
I had to really stay on it... i agree with Tiha on needing good shoulders and elbows.
So i have to go pick up the heads, clean up the front cover, and prep the mating surfaces.
Ill order the kit tomorrow and send one of my hpops to terminator engineering for rebuild(unless anyone knows better deal)
Has anyone made a thread chaser for the head bolt holes?
I had to really stay on it... i agree with Tiha on needing good shoulders and elbows.
So i have to go pick up the heads, clean up the front cover, and prep the mating surfaces.
Ill order the kit tomorrow and send one of my hpops to terminator engineering for rebuild(unless anyone knows better deal)
Has anyone made a thread chaser for the head bolt holes?
Powerstroke Cowboy
Well-known member
Do you have a extra head bolt laying around? I cut groves across the threads/length wise with the bolt, with a grinder. Works perfectly. When you are 25 miles from auto parts store, you improvise.
If you run the drill slower you dont have to in and out as fast. Looks like it worked good for you. Cleanup is a mess though. Hot water with soap and a pressure washer is how I do it.
If you run the drill slower you dont have to in and out as fast. Looks like it worked good for you. Cleanup is a mess though. Hot water with soap and a pressure washer is how I do it.
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