Project Wheels Up

vanderchevy18

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I am running the obs rear axle. I might have to run a 9" rear end. All the disk brake adapter kits only fit 16" rims and bigger. These rims I have are 15".
 

vanderchevy18

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Man I really need to get this wheel and tire issue figured out. Any ideas? From everything I know and have found, I'm going to need to run my rear drum brakes.
 
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bad12jr

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I swear my obs with rear drums setup right will stop as quick as my superduty. Granted its lighter but lock the brakes up will almost bounce your head off the wheel if you aren't braced.

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I run a TSM rear disc setup on my F150. I only did them because I use it off road. So I will go through a lot of water and wet drum brakes suck. Just like I run electric fans so I can turn them off when I go through water and keep water off the engine. Obviously none of that applies to you. I would look at the weights of both setups and run the lighter setup. Lol

I did notice a decent difference with the rear discs though. Mine use Caddy calipers. I'm not wild about using Caddy parts, but they work well. I do need to shorten up my e-brake cable a touch more so it will work right. I would say the discs stops a bit better, but I do need to run a proportioning valve or something. When I get on the brakes real hard, it locks up the rear.

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lincolnlocker

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are you trying to keep weight down by using the smaller axle? why not a superduty dana 80 with disc brakes on it already? be a lot stronger too...

live life full throttle
 

vanderchevy18

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Because I already have a Spicer 10.25 with a 3:55 limited slip rear end. I also found cheap and local a set of 8-6.5 bolt pattern rims with slicks. It works perfectly. I'm just going to leave it.
 
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Yeah and that's what I don't need. Especially at 120+mph. Drums will work just fine in my situation.

When I say get in the brakes hard, I mean really digging into the brakes. Stopping at the track wouldn't be a big deal with them. I've stopped with them from 130ish a few times and they stop real hard, just get in the brakes gradually harder like you normally would. They are way nicer than the drums at all times until you freak out and slam the brakes and lock them up. Easily fixed with a proportioning valve though. It does feel like the rear bias is a little more than it used to be, but still definitely stops more on the front brakes. I'll fix it when I get the new engine in it

You need to measure your hub and your drums or at least test fit the wheels before moving on really. I got a set of 8x6.5 15" wheels with slicks on them that a guy ran on his 2000 Dodge, but the Ford hub is bigger than the Dodge hub and the wheels wouldn't fit. 15's shouldn't fit with discs unless you run a 1/2 ton axle, but I think you should just run the drums unless you want to lose the weight of the drums. In that case, run the TSM kit with a prop valve.
 
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vanderchevy18

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Yeah I might have to grind out the center hub but that's not a big deal. That's also why I'm sticking with the drums. They'll be fine for stopping at the track, but also fit the rims. I may have to add weight to meet some class rules so I doubt my drum brakes will be a weight issue. LOL
 
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I may have to add weight to meet some class rules so I doubt my drum brakes will be a weight issue. LOL

That's what you need in a 2wd truck. You can put more weight over the tires if the truck is light enough that you need to add weight. Put scales under each tire and bring it up to weight while moving things like the batteries, ballast weight, nitrous bottles, fuel cell, etc around to put as much weight on the rear tires as you can and also keep weight close to equal side to side. LOL Then mount everything. Wonder how much those scales are...
 
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