Steed Speed 7.3 manifolds

NyCowboy87

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Anyone seen/heard anything on these or have a set? Looking for something that flows good for my p pump truck. Found these on Facebook and look sick.

2c7d27c62a2e97a62ffcd782aafa23d0.jpg
3812a6cedeebfc88c4c530494bbc0ef0.jpg



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psduser1

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Some headers have had problems with cracking.
These shouldn't have that issue, lol.
They are quite short for a higher rpm application, but that may not be a dealbreaker, in the big picture. Heat is a bigger problem, I would think.
 
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ibestroken

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A few folks had them to test. Other then that I heard they weren't gonna be very cost friendly and the idea was **** canned. I believe dan howard and irate had a set to do some testing with.
 

superpsd

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Well that sucks. Looks like a great replacement for stock manifolds. They do look costly to the average 7.3 crowd.
 

CRANEMAN

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Anyone seen/heard anything on these or have a set? Looking for something that flows good for my p pump truck. Found these on Facebook and look sick.

2c7d27c62a2e97a62ffcd782aafa23d0.jpg
3812a6cedeebfc88c4c530494bbc0ef0.jpg



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Those are bad azz! They would save alot of room over headers... I know they are very popular in the Cummins world. They produce significant gains, I would buy set for sure, to test against our headers from Fab Shop.
 

Charles

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As you know, the point of the header is to isolate each pulse to promote scavenging by the exhaust gas and deter reversion by keeping adjacent cylinders pulses away from each other until an optimum distance is found where the inertia of the flowing pulse can balance the ability to clean it's own cylinder with the problem of reverting into another.

The purpose of a log style manifold is to be compact and tough. We already have those, they come stock.

The above product is just a stock log-type replacement and won't achieve the gains of a header.... but I've not had a problem with the stock unit breaking, so I'm lost as to the point of these. If they don't make power, and the stock units are sufficiently strong, what exactly is the goal?

That would seem to summarize why these are not popular.

I would suggest stock log manifolds with gaskets, internally 2000* ceramic coated, (NOT externally coated!) stainless steel bolts with stainless steel mechanical lock washers and copious anti-seize on the fasteners for later removal. After the first heating cycle, leave the engine running and snug all the fasteners while warm. I have never failed that combo.

For power, run a 304 or 321 stainless header with a thick flange, slice the flange between cylinders, oversize the bolt holes, use stainless hardware with mechanical locks and ALWAYS use expansion/contraction bellows somewhere in the system, else the expansion rate of the stainless will push and pull until failure. Let it move and it will live....

For a race vehicle, just use spring contained slip fittings everywhere in lieu of bellows, done.... cheap as hell and if designed correctly, will see your engine in hell before any of it cares about the heat.
 
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NyCowboy87

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As you know, the point of the header is to isolate each pulse to promote scavenging by the exhaust gas and deter reversion by keeping adjacent cylinders pulses away from each other until an optimum distance is found where the inertia of the flowing pulse can balance the ability to clean it's own cylinder with the problem of reverting into another.

The purpose of a log style manifold is to be compact and tough. We already have those, they come stock.

The above product is just a stock log-type replacement and won't achieve the gains of a header.... but I've not had a problem with the stock unit breaking, so I'm lost as to the point of these. If they don't make power, and the stock units are sufficiently strong, what exactly is the goal?

That would seem to summarize why these are not popular.

I would suggest stock log manifolds with gaskets, internally 2000* ceramic coated, (NOT externally coated!) stainless steel bolts with stainless steel mechanical lock washers and copious anti-seize on the fasteners for later removal. After the first heating cycle, leave the engine running and snug all the fasteners while warm. I have never failed.


I can not run stock manifolds on this engine. The turbo has to be in the front of the engine, not the rear. With those manifolds you could flip them and re-work the v band outlets on them to make them work for my application.



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NyCowboy87

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Called steed on my lunch break, to say the least I am not impressed. The guy was a total a$$ to me. Apparently they are not going to make them and he told me straight up that whatever I decide to run it won't be a steed manifold, goodbye and hung up the phone on me. Needless to say I will never buy anything from them.


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sootie

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Called steed on my lunch break, to say the least I am not impressed. The guy was a total a$$ to me. Apparently they are not going to make them and he told me straight up that whatever I decide to run it won't be a steed manifold, goodbye and hung up the phone on me. Needless to say I will never buy anything from them.


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I'm surprised you called them, their product absolutely sucks. Remember when they brought out their six four stuff and it actually caused a drop in power?
 

Charles

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I can not run stock manifolds on this engine. The turbo has to be in the front of the engine, not the rear. With those manifolds you could flip them and re-work the v band outlets on them to make them work for my application.



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Then headers it is. I would wager a lot of money that your last failure was due to lack of expansion/contraction allowance.

Things like to grow when hot. It has to go somewhere. Stainless likes to grow a LOT.

Do you have a picture of your cracked up setup? It's usually instantly obvious where the fault is. It's rarely an actual welding or materials fault.
 

NyCowboy87

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Then headers it is. I would wager a lot of money that your last failure was due to lack of expansion/contraction allowance.



Things like to grow when hot. It has to go somewhere. Stainless likes to grow a LOT.



Do you have a picture of your cracked up setup? It's usually instantly obvious where the fault is. It's rarely an actual welding or materials fault.


Yes I realize they have to be able to expand and contract, especially stainless. The old ones were David Lotts headers that he sold. Some of it was probably my fault, they did see 16-1800* regularly going down the track. After 8 or 9 hooks they were trashed.


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superpsd

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I thought you were going to build some headers? Maybe a mild steel header would be better. I have moddified cast iron manifolds before by cutting off the outlets and welding up some mild steel outlets. Never had a weld break but they were lower power applications. I used missile rod once the rest of the time I just heated the manifold joint area up and migged them. Lots will say they will just crack but I have welded WG block off plates on turbine housings with a mig no problemo.
 
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co04cobra

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My first thought on seeing the steed speed ones is " No way that adds power".

It looks like they flattened the manifold?
 

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