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Groomzybanshee

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wrong, I had forged rods buddy and so did groomzy and mad diesel.. what works for some doesnt always work for others. Im pretty damn confident tunning has alot to do with it.. just curious who tunes yours?

Lol.. I made it 3 year in the 6-700hp range. Mine didn't window the block. I burnt a whole on a piston witch I believe was injector related so don't rule out us forged rods.. My duallys still running strong knock on wood.
 

OSCS

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Lol.. I made it 3 year in the 6-700hp range. Mine didn't window the block. I burnt a whole on a piston witch I believe was injector related so don't rule out us forged rods.. My duallys still running strong knock on wood.

schwoopsies i though you blew a hole in the block like mine.. who did your tunning?
 

PowerstrokeJunkie

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I still say find a known good forged rod short block that has never been molested before, put your heads and stuff on it, let gearhead live tune it and roll with it.. save a whole bunch of time and money
 

OSCS

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I still say find a known good forged rod short block that has never been molested before, put your heads and stuff on it, let gearhead live tune it and roll with it.. save a whole bunch of time and money

trust me im a cheap bastard and this option sounds money.. but im not going to lie I really dont want to do this chit all over again. I mean if really good deal on a really good block showed up id probably do it
 

Arisley

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True. I would still really consider that route though. Maybe even a step further. Leave the heads alone and throw studs and springs at it.
 

CSIPSD

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I doubt I will ever buy another "built" motor... Just grab me another OBS or 99 motor, stud it and drop it in...


$800-$1300 and your on the road.
 

CSIPSD

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Another... Meaning more then the one that is in the scrap pile behind Davids shop... its green...

I will continue to run OBS or 99 motors until I dont feel like driving a 7.3 anymore.
 

OSCS

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Another... Meaning more then the one that is in the scrap pile behind Davids shop... its green...

I will continue to run OBS or 99 motors until I dont feel like driving a 7.3 anymore.

I thouht you where insinuating you built a motor with aftermarket parts
 

V-Ref

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OCSC

Id look at each part of your build as an individual component and decide if its gain/benefit is worth the cost.

Crower rods...do what for your goals? Girdle...does what for your goals? Main studs...again what is its function...same with block fill...fire rings...and so on. What do each of those cost vs what they contribute.

It does add up. After you pull the motor once or twice those costs will seem small IF they would saved you that trouble.

Forums are fun..and are great for perspective...but talking with folks (like you posted you have already) that actually have experience with what works and what doesn't...that would be what id make decisions around. Example...the DI compound thread...of all the feedback posted...how many actually had ever even ridden in a 7.3 compound truck.

Thuglike didnt run a girdle last I remember asking him. According to the hp list, that looked to be good for some pretty respectable power #s.

I think an honest assessment of the goal/intended use of the truck would go far into seeing your money well spent.

It doesn't help that the 7.3 is one of the more pricey $$$ to hp ratio platforms to build
on.

Hope that helps...no answers..just questions you can answer for yourself.

Good luck. Interested to see what you decide.

For my perspective.....what's a running p7100 DT360 or a 12v cost in Houston?
 

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