warren diesel trans

Jeff@Spartan

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We offer them, but have yet to build one. LOL Not too many stockish trucks around these parts.:walkin:

Yeah. I guess I could see it being beneficial for someone who tows heavy on a regular basis and runs mild tuning. Peace of mind with the increase in strength.
 

Smokyred

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The levels listed are rated on the safe side for trucks with proper tuning. If anyone has any suggestions on what should be added to the highlighted part in red, we would be willing to consider helpful revision suggestions.

Wayne, if you could specify which levels will hold X power for occasional strip/pulls competition that would be great. Or which are recommended for lower power trucks in occasional competition.

I fall into the stage 2 category and want to end up at 650-700rwhp, but I'd hate to hook it and break the trans because I didn't pay the ~1700 for billet internals. 7k for a stage 3 trans and converter is hard to swallow tho too.

Dave
 

jdgleason

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Wayne, if you could specify which levels will hold X power for occasional strip/pulls competition that would be great. Or which are recommended for lower power trucks in occasional competition.

I fall into the stage 2 category and want to end up at 650-700rwhp, but I'd hate to hook it and break the trans because I didn't pay the ~1700 for billet internals. 7k for a stage 3 trans and converter is hard to swallow tho too.

Dave

Idk if I would ask Wayne for that kind of information today or not... We just towed his truck back to the shop with a broken shaft.... He is on stock turbos.
 

Wayne

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Wayne had a stage .5. LOL And yes, he has traction bars.

Pffft...:bs:
The trans is what's left of a stage 2 minus the billet low/reverse hub. I also have the extreme duty torque converter and billet flexplate. Based on the symptoms of how it went down I strongly suspect I twisted off the end of the intermediate shaft. It wouldn't be the first time I broke one of those. Being cheap has definitely cost me, at least in time to fix it. I will not make that mistake again. A billet intermediate WILL be going in this round.

Yes, I have traction bars, good ones too. They're the fabtech long floating bars. I have zero axle wrap, but one of the bad things is I've been doing a ton of testing for different products, and for that I run a series of data logged tests including some aggressive driving to compare different parts. I've run the same tune for all the tests, Innovative extreme race, with firmer stock stall shifting for driving, and race lock for dyno runs. Even with firmer stock shifting strategies, the shifts are quite violent unless you're in the throttle a lot, so I attribute the shaft breakage to violent shifting, and torque spikes on shifts, not smooth max power runs. I'm really looking forward to the updated tune in hopes that I can have a happy medium between shifts firm enough to hold yet not so hard I feel it bang every time it grabs another gear. If not, I'll be going to new tunes even though the soon to be more upgraded trans should handle the shock load.

FWIW, when I'm not testing I usually run the extreme mild tune, and stock shifting, which keeps the trans quite happy. I hope this experience can show other readers the value of buying the good stuff so you only have the warranty for peace of mind, not to actually need it. I should also note that when the truck was a little closer to stock I really enjoyed the innovative tunes, and still like them. I just need some custom stuff to handle the way I drive for these tests, and when I do sled pull.

To sum it up, stock shafts can, and do break. You might get lucky, and you might not. If you sled pull or drag race your truck, expect carnage at some point or another on stock parts. We've all heard it; you gotta pay to play. If your truck is one you don't need to be reliable every day, and can afford a little down time if/when you break a shaft goofing off, then if your budget's tight, sure, go with stock shafts until your day comes like mine did today.
 

Wayne

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He's got hd clutches and an old school billet input LOL

If by old school, you mean 300M, then yes, it's old school. It's not the "H/D" one, but the standard upgraded billet unit that comes in our stage 2 transmission. You gotta go to stage 3, 4, or 5, or make a special request for the H/D billet input on anything less. It's a risk I'll have to take as I wasn't planning on buying an upgraded intermediate so soon. I've spent enough time & money on this lately that the wife's not too pleased. I'm sure when I get time and money everything will eventually be billet, but either eventually or out of necessity will be the key phrases at this point.
 

Smokyred

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Well Wayne, it sounds like you have the kind of luck I do, which means I'd have to go stage 3. I assume then it's pretty much all or nothing when it comes to putting in billet parts?

Dave
 

HD F250

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Wayne, sorry to hear about your luck. That sucks!

I am glad I have decided to go back in and put the billet intermediate shaft and planetary overdrive in while she is under the knife.
 

MINK

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Well Wayne, it sounds like you have the kind of luck I do, which means I'd have to go stage 3. I assume then it's pretty much all or nothing when it comes to putting in billet parts?

Dave

Only thing I opted not to do was the billet output...Looking back i'm not sure it was worth the savings but you dont hear to much about them failing.
 

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