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first thing I would check is those 2 fuel screens in the pick up.....my F350 started acting up, losing power, running like crap.....I pulled the pick up out of the tank and the screens were completely plugged with gunk...cleaned them and it's back to running like a champ. I had it easy...

SOLD.....thanks to all who responded...

Thanks.......I was using the hazards to help troubleshoot.......again it would buzz continually/intermittently......... as long as the switch was on.......touching the brake stopped it......engaging the hazards made it work properly as well........ Popped the cover off and pulled the relay while...

I have a regulated return kit for a 7.3 that I bought several years ago from ITP Diesel and never installed......then sold the truck. It is new in the package and all parts are included.......it's similar to this one...

Thanks!.......that's it......it threw me off because there's a cover over it that snaps on.......so it didn't feel like a standard relay...............snapped the cover off and there it is......also stopped buzzing too.......:shrug:

OK here is the best picture I could get........(click pic to enlarge) the suspect module is the black one located adjacent to the gray brake control connector.....(behind it in the pic)

On my '02 F350........there is some kind of module located right beside the plug-in for the brake controller....it has an electrical connector on it. It will intermittently make a loud buzzing noise that stops instantly when the brake pedal is depressed........any idea what this is...

Ran AE and picked up code C1226 Brake warning lamp short to ground Checked at the brake switch pedal and the LG/Red wire was shorted to ground. Schematic showed 3 places it went. ABS module, GEM, and PCM. Pulled the PCM......that pin is next to the center bolt. Apparently the center bolt...

I'm gonna pull it back out but the connector went in really easy....so I don't think I bent a pin but I will start there. I suspect that maybe there's a wire that got chaffed or pinched or something? It starts fine and all the instrument lights go out as normal. Then as soon as I push the...

I swapped the PCM for one I had run a year or so back.....it was fine when I pulled it out. Got it installed and started up fine. When I push the brake pedal to unlock the shifter the fuse blows and the ABS light comes on....? any ideas?

Mine did the same thing....self-applied the brakes. Flush and all that..... did no good. Replaced the unit....no problems since.......5 years ago. Make sure you replace those little teflon seals on the line connections.

'02 F350 flat bed dump, bought October last year, 186K miles. Installed bellowed up pipes and a new HPOP soon after I got it. Also had the turbo off to gut the EBPV and replace turbo o-rings Yesterday while driving up a fairly steep hill I noticed that when I pushed down hard on the skinny...

I had an Edge on mine for awhile and with a '99 PCM (XLE4) it screwed the shifting up too. I changed the PCM to an '01 model (PMT2) and it worked much better.

Pull it out and inspect the bearings. I've built dozens of diffs and the only ones I've seen where there was a shim issue was a Jeep where the carrier bearing cone was loose on the carrier and had chewed up all the shims on that side. The carrier bearings are a tight press onto the ring gear...

Sticky or worn IPR? Did you check to see if the nut was tight on the back of the IPR? On my '02 it had fallen off and was down in the valley. I put it back on and hoped for the best. No dice......still had to replace the HPOP and put on a new IPR too.

Pull the caliper off keeping the line attached and use a c-clamp to see how easily the piston pushes back in. It shouldn't take much to move it. If it takes a lot of pressure to push it in, it could be the rubber line.

My '02 took a long time to crank when the HPOP was weak, but it was weak enough to set a CEL when you went WOT. I hooked it up to AE and the pressure was only going to about 1400-1600 psi......replaced the HPOP....problem solved. Now, this is only one possibility...it could be something else.

If you're gonna take it off the road onto any kind of rough terrain, forget the dovetail, it will drag on every hump you go over.......I removed the dovetail my trailer had on it and made some longer ramps that fold in half.

Now, if you can just learn to weld! J/K LOL Looks great! Lots of thought into it. I most always build my own stuff because you can never find exzctly what you want in store bought stuff.

Finally got time to R&R the HPOP....got a Bosch from Diesel O-rings.com along with a new IPR and fuel bowl re-seal kit. Took 3 dam hours to get it apart and back together. ICP is now 2800-2900 at WOT with 38%-41% IPR duty cycle. Starts and runs MUCH better, and CEL is gone! Now, on to ball...