Got real mad today. Cold-started truck,POURING smoke, wouldn't go anywhere.

85_305

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Jumped in the truck this morning, conducted a cold start, gave it 25seconds to warm up, started driving.

EBPV kicked in. Chip was in hot setting but was driving real easy. Traffic behind me started catching up, put the pedal a little further down, more smoke... traffic about to slam on their brakes I was going so slow... floored it.

Blackout.

What the ****. Was so mad. Let off, pushed it down again. Smoke. Dropped to the stock tune. Same results.

Pulled off to the side of the road, let it warm up a few seconds. Put the pedal to the floor in neutral, very sluggish reving and wouldn't go above like 1800rpms.

Out of nowhere the EBPV popped open and it reved/drove like normal.

Fuel has white bottle degeller in it; dont think its fuel.

Typically the EBPV kicks off when I put my foot down and the truck still has enough power to accelerate. Do you guys think my ebpv just stuck then?
 

ajfetterman

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25 second warm up? Dang I let mine idle for 5-10 mins in the morning and it is slow going for the first 10 mins.

I only gave her heavy throttle once while cold once and it was to avoid being in an accident. When I did she blew black smoke like crazy....never had done that at heavy throttle before when she was warm.

Anyhow I would give it more than 25 seconds on cold mornings and take it easy until that temp gauge is at normal temp.
 

85_305

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Ya usually I give it 1-2mins to warm up, as diesels are grump when cold... but i've never, ever had it just pour smoke and NOT move like it did today. Was probably just because it was cold then eh?
 

CSIPSD

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EBP Sensor is plugged. Clean/replace the tube, check, if still not working then replace the sensor.
 

yzrmbsg

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I'm not 100% sure if its true or mot, but everwhere I have read, the ebp sensor and tube were not related to the functioning of the ebpv. Having very similar names, i kinda find it hard to believe but thats what the "forum pros" keep saying.

Anyways...sounds like your ebpv was just sluggish on opening, probably because you didnt let it warm up. Seems like the most likely culprit. Check out the connector and solenoid on the pedistal and look for any loose wires or leaks.
 

85_305

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EBP Sensor is plugged. Clean/replace the tube, check, if still not working then replace the sensor.

Fair enough.

I'm not 100% sure if its true or mot, but everwhere I have read, the ebp sensor and tube were not related to the functioning of the ebpv. Having very similar names, i kinda find it hard to believe but thats what the "forum pros" keep saying.

Anyways...sounds like your ebpv was just sluggish on opening, probably because you didnt let it warm up. Seems like the most likely culprit. Check out the connector and solenoid on the pedistal and look for any loose wires or leaks.

Good deal appreciate it.


Fwiw the longest I let my diesels warm up is 2mins or so. Diesels are too efficient of motors to just let sit, they produce no waste energy (well, very little anyhow.. And basically none @ idle) so its best to ust drive them to warm them up.
 

85_305

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I am believe me. Today I was very pressed on time which is why I only gave her 25seconds or so.
 

yzrmbsg

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I agree to a certain point, the "motor" is fine cold, but the oil definately needs to warm up to get moving efficiantly and not be so thick. Unless I am absolutely pressed for time, I let mine warm up for no less than 5 minutes, winter (plugged in also) and summer. Just so that its easier on things. I dont have the ebpv either, not a fan of that thing at all.
 

littleredstroker

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Not trying to derail.. mine does this at anything around 10 degrees or less. even after 10 minute warn up with high idle on it closes when I accelerate , opens when I let off throttle completely until engine is at normal operating temps

sent while trying not to JJ My rods!!!!!!
 

CSIPSD

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Not trying to derail.. mine does this at anything around 10 degrees or less. even after 10 minute warn up with high idle on it closes when I accelerate , opens when I let off throttle completely until engine is at normal operating temps

sent while trying not to JJ My rods!!!!!!

You mean it closes when you let off, and opens when you accelerate...

And yes, the EBP sensor is tied into the valve, as is the IAT sensor, TPS and brake peddle.
 

TyCorr

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I use 5w40 mobil 1 and typically cycle the key twice start the truck, lockout od and away I go. In a.race.tune.no less. I dont.even remember what an ebpv looks.like as I havent posessed one.for.five years.

Warm ups are bs. Especially if you plug that bitsh in. That, btw, is for the birds too.
 

backwoodsboy

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Have anything to back that up? Just curious cuz its the opposite of what I have seen/read/been told, by multiple others.

Straight from the Ford Service Manual, courtesy of AllData:

"The pressurized oil entering the turbocharger also serves to actuate the exhaust back pressure warm-up system. This system consists of an actuator and a butterfly valve. This system operates only during the cold weather warm-up cycle.

"The Exhaust Back-Pressure sensor is a variable capacitor sensor that is supplied a 5-volt reference signal by the PCM and returns a linear analog voltage signal that indicates pressure. The Exhaust Back-Pressure sensor measures the pressure in the RH exhaust manifold. This sensor is used in conjunction with the exhaust back-pressure regulator to form a closed loop exhaust back-pressure control system.

"The exhaust back-pressure is controlled by the PCM to provide more heat to the coolant for cab heating when ambient air temperature is below 7°C (45°F) and engine oil temperature is below 75°C (167°F) during low load, low speed operating conditions.

"An open or short in the Exhaust Back-Pressure sensor wiring will result in a low out of range voltage at the PCM, and the PCM will disable Exhaust Back-Pressure control."
 

yzrmbsg

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Cool, thanks for that. I always wondered why 2 things with similar names would not have anything to do with eachother. Makes sense now.
 

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