Aftermarket hpop problem symptoms.

Jomax · Dec 12, 2015

dsberman94 said:
Well I've got the electrical piece off this van but there's no way I'm going to be able to get the stem and the rest of it out of the hpop with a wrench or socket with the turbo on and I can't pull the turbo. Is the electrical part more than likely the issue or can the stem have internal issues at well?

I'd try the coil for now. But if that doesn't fix it. Before you mark off IPR. Try a valve as well.

After you change it, throw it in High idle, and let it run till OT, no sense in a test drive only to have it die.

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dsberman94 · Dec 12, 2015

Jomax said:
I'd try the coil for now. But if that doesn't fix it. Before you mark off IPR. Try a valve as well.

After you change it, throw it in High idle, and let it run till OT, no sense in a test drive only to have it die.

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Last time I killed it I held it around 2k right in front of the house. If the coil doesn't work I'll just have to buy one. I nabbed the icp sensor to try as well.

I don't know how this van ran because there was no tin nut or spacer on the back of the ipr, I happened to grab the wire harness to track down to the actual ipr and it moved a little. I fracked down the rest if the way and moved that with my fingers and I pulled the coil right off it without loosening anything else and I didn't hear any clinks into the valley. Maybe that's why they took it out of commission. Idk but my buddy said he drove it onto the trailer.

I'll give all this a shot late tomorrow morning and hopefully something works.

David N · Dec 13, 2015

My money is on that pump.

People told me there's no way a pump can "sorta kinda" go bad, but I had one that did. It cranked and ran fine when cold, but once you got it to operating temperature, it wouldn't start back. I replaced everything, including sending my injectors back to Full Force. Finally I went out on a limb and replaced the pump, and that fixed it.

Granted, mine never just died, but mine was a factory Bosch pump. Not a Terminator pump that has been messed with.

I hope it isn't your pump thats bad, but when I was searching for symptoms about my truck, I came across several threads about no starts when hot T500, and all were cured by swapping in a new Bosch Pump.

Jomax · Dec 13, 2015

Have you tried soaking the pump with water after it shuts off to see if it starts?

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David N · Dec 13, 2015

Jomax said:
Have you tried soaking the pump with water after it shuts off to see if it starts?

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People suggested I do that as well, but it never made a difference for me.

dsberman94 · Dec 13, 2015

Jomax said:
Have you tried soaking the pump with water after it shuts off to see if it starts?

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Thought about doing that but I was right in the middle of doing something and it was pretty well cooled down by the time I finished what I was doing.

TyCorr · Dec 13, 2015

Just a crazy idea....send it to terminator and have him check it out? Including a description of the issue.

Im going to send the nicer srp gen 2 core I have to dynoproven and have them mod it. Then im going to get a 17deg pump and i may leave that on if i start doing my own tuning.

dsberman94 · Dec 13, 2015

Daily driver truck. I need it. I'd rather swap a couple parts and have it run than have it down for another week+

dsberman94 · Dec 13, 2015

Well, try and swap a couple parts and it works rather than have it down another 2 weeks while we ship a pump back and forth as having nothing wrong with the pump just to have it still not work.

dsberman94 · Dec 13, 2015

Well wires look good. Had to get off my knees for a minute so I figured I'd update. I switched out the icp sensor with one I got off the van and switched the coil on the ipr. Icp had liquid in it but it may be fuel from my fuel bowl leak that I can't get to stop, however some of the liquid was blackish on my finger. I've resealed the whole thing twice now and the upper line still drips whenever the pump is running. So that probably doesn't help anything underneath it last very long. Just have to put the driver side cac pipe back on that I had to remove to change the icp sensor as I had the version that needs a 5/8" wrench around the base to remove. And then I'll fire it up and let it idle in front of the house and ruin everyone's quiet Sunday.

dsberman94 · Dec 13, 2015

Never mind definitely oil in the icp sensor. A small puddle was under the electrical connector portion. The one I put in is dry inside and I cleaned the connector as much as possible.

dsberman94 · Dec 13, 2015

Well whether it was the ipr coil or the icp sensor, it's fixed now. Gonna try to start it in a minute to make sure it starts hot and then I'll call it good if it does start.

She's good. I gotta replace the parts I took of the van next weekend but I'll be able to do that with my truck and all my tools.

Jomax · Dec 13, 2015

dsberman94 said:
Well whether it was the ipr coil or the icp sensor, it's fixed now. Gonna try to start it in a minute to make sure it starts hot and then I'll call it good if it does start.

She's good. I gotta replace the parts I took of the van next weekend but I'll be able to do that with my truck and all my tools.

Man it could've been either. This is why you change one part at a time to really know.

But glad it's fixed.

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dsberman94 · Dec 13, 2015

I didn't feel like messing with a hot motor, so I did both while it was stone cold. Obviously the icp was bad with oil in the connector, everything was tight on the ipr and it is tight now also. I guess it's possible both were bad. I don't think this truck has idled this smooth in a long time. So in the end both were probably bad and needed replaced.