No cold start. Need help.

TyCorr

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Id unhook the batteries, recharge them, and then reattach, checking the terminals for cleanliness of course.
Unplug that cts and just forget it for now...using it judge whether something is amiss or not is crazy. Before you get all penisey remember I have one.
 

dsberman94

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Anyone know where the grounds to the frame go? From the cab and motor? Sunday before I parked it I had no choice but to blast through some snow drifts covering the road. Wondering if the relays clicking and it seeming to not fire has anything to do with possibly a ground wire being torn off.
 

TyCorr

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There are three under there. Not sure if an 02 is different. On my 00 there is one on each side if the frame just behind the header panel. There is one from the block to the firewall on the rear pass side of motor.

Knowing this, it'd be tough to rip one of them.
 

dsberman94

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Probably not then but I'll have to atleast try to look. I'm still thinking it's just so cold that the wires are shrinking and causing weird chit to happen. I don't know what else would explain the relays just magically doing this with good batteries and cables.

Next step is going to be a forced air torpedo heater right at the front of the thing with a fresh block heater and gpr. If it doesn't start then I don't know what I'm gonna do.

Definitely need to figure out exactly what relay it is under the hood that's clicking. Almost positive it's one of the two that are mounted near the driver's side hinge under the hood with the plastic covers over them. And I'm pretty sure it's the one closer to the motor. Being almost an hour away from it makes this difficult. Can't just walk outside and check it.
 
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dsberman94

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Actually after the torpedo heater block heater and gpr is going to be find some way to push it uphill on an ice covered driveway and into the garage. Especially if I have to tear the dash apart.
 

dsberman94

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I find it hard to believe these batts are bad already. Although quite possible I'm not sure I'd believe it. Like I said they were on a charger all day. I almost refuse to believe they're bad. I'll pull them and test them. What should they read on a meter? Volts, amps, etc?

Is it possible the batteries have enough amps to crank it over easy and not have enough volts to run all the computers?
 
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TyCorr

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Yea. Good idea. The hint has been dropped a few times. You dont understand, we've all been there and these fucjers are goofy sometimes. I chased issues for moooonths back in 2010. Kept winding up being "bad batteries". But it wasnt. They would test bad because they were getting the **** beat out of them. One day I went to work, shut it off, and it didnt start. Starter was fried...

These things were awesome when new, getting up in years its sucky diagnosing stuff on a dual alternator, dual battery, truck. Especially given the trouble ive had with starters.

I had to get a NEW starter, new batteries, new alts, and then new cables.
 

TyCorr

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You're gonna have them on a charger, then check them? And you need a load tester to really check them to make sure they're good.

Id prefer, and hope he would take them somewhere and have them tested. To be certain.
 

SDS97_7.3

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Id prefer, and hope he would take them somewhere and have them tested. To be certain.

So would I. I test them at home. Depending on how they load test, I will then take them to a place near me called Battery Warehouse and have them throw them on their machine. They have even offered to charge my batteries overnight for free if they load test out fine but are very low on juice.

The way he made is sound was he was just gonna check the voltage after charging. Which lets face it, isn't a good way to test batteries
 

cbf9703

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Yea. Good idea. The hint has been dropped a few times. You dont understand, we've all been there and these fucjers are goofy sometimes. I chased issues for moooonths back in 2010. Kept winding up being "bad batteries". But it wasnt. They would test bad because they were getting the **** beat out of them. One day I went to work, shut it off, and it didnt start. Starter was fried...

These things were awesome when new, getting up in years its sucky diagnosing stuff on a dual alternator, dual battery, truck. Especially given the trouble ive had with starters.

I had to get a NEW starter, new batteries, new alts, and then new cables.

That's no joke. I went through 3 new starters in 2 months one year (talk about a bad batch)... I just knew it couldn't be the starter, sometimes you have to be smarter than yourself.
 

TyCorr

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That's no joke. I went through 3 new starters in 2 months one year (talk about a bad batch)... I just knew it couldn't be the starter, sometimes you have to be smarter than yourself.

Yep. Starters, hpops, injectors...you name it. Seen it with my own wallet. I just dont bring anything up on these forums anymore. ***k it, let people buy junk.
 

dsberman94

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Bought brand new starter batteries and cable when the batteries went bad.

Why were your starters going bad so quick?
 

cbf9703

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Bought brand new starter batteries and cable when the batteries went bad.

Why were your starters going bad so quick?

That's no joke. I went through 3 new starters in 2 months one year (talk about a bad batch)... I just knew it couldn't be the starter, sometimes you have to be smarter than yourself.

In my case, bad batch from the parts house. Original went bad, put a replacement... It lasted a few months, warrantied it out. The second try barely made 2 weeks. Gave it one more shot and that one's been on the truck almost 6 years now. They did admit they had a lot of issues with that batch. :shrug: I've had similar luck with alternators in the past too. I've warrantied out my fair share of parts, hell, we used to have a DD-wheeling rig-warranty circle for lockouts going until we went with drive flanges. Lol

I just learned years ago that putting something new on doesn't mean you can blindly overlook it when diagnosing an issue.
 

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