Tom S
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I do not have the OBS set up any more on my truck (38r and SD stuff) but this would have interested me for sure otherwise. How is this DIY as far as balancing?
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I do not have the OBS set up any more on my truck (38r and SD stuff) but this would have interested me for sure otherwise. How is this DIY as far as balancing?
This is looking better and better. Glad theres no bashing happening as that tends to occur when someone tries to do something like this.
That being said, with the deployment of the new WWG2 and now this, I personally now have a decision to make.
James, I want to do this but I'm not real familiar with turbos. I dont even know the terms..lol It wont stop me (I successfully did the DIY injectors) but want to be sure of what special tools I may need.
Since mine has never been apart (that I know of), im sure its tired. Any instructions and what do I need to be prepared for? If Im gonna give good feedback, I need to be sure my piece is good and it goes back together right.
Basic hand tools will cover the removal
And install. Best to have a 10mm stubby ratcheting end wrench. And a 15, 13 and a 12pt 5/16 or a 8mm 12 pt for the bolts on the turbo. Snap ring pliers
A good idea to index the housing to the center section with a punch.
And if its rusted up plan on a couple chisels to pry it apart at least the exhaust housing.
Brake clean and shop rags just about covers it all. Not a step by step but its pretty straight forward.
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so any chance you would sell just parts of the kit? say the 66mm comp housing and 360* thrust washer? i wanna try the WW2 wheel with this setup instead of buying a d66
The ww2 is designed for a stock housing....how would using a ported(bigger) housing be any good at all....The ww2 is not 66mm...
so any chance you would sell just parts of the kit? say the 66mm comp housing and 360* thrust washer? i wanna try the WW2 wheel with this setup instead of buying a d66
PM SENT
Identical wheels, a billet wheel will be heavier then a cast.
Less weight does mean faster spool up, if they are identical wheels.
Billet refers to being made out of "one piece" which can be steel, aluminum, etc...
Billet wheels are typically made to be stronger then cast wheels and come in different designs. That's the main benefit.
I beg to differ.... The billet wheels I am using are made from a Lightweight A2000 Alcoa Aluminum.
I have weighed bullseye billet wheels in the past that Are heavier than the cast version, which will hinder spool time.
The billet version of the WWG2 for the Stock SD turbos is MUCH lighter than the cast version.
Everyone will say something different... The turbo builder i have talked to ALL say the Billet aluminum wheel size for size is lighter and flows more air the the stranded cast wheel... A lot has to do with the design of the wheel... Hence i said this...
Sorry for the derail NRHX2009!! I will stop here now.... I like what you are doing... Keep it up!!!
Well I appreciate the positive attitude with this thread so far.
Im not trying to do anything but offer a little more affordable way for you guys to get the air needed w/o having to purchase a completely new turbo or change out your stock mounting system
38r version?