Anyone interested in a DYI Billet 66mm OBS-E99 Kit

Tom S

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I do not have the OBS set up any more on my truck (38r and SD stuff) but this would have interested me for sure otherwise. How is this DIY as far as balancing?
 
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mandkole

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I could be interested in participating... I don't know much about turbos but always wanted to learn more about them. Not sure Im fired up about taking it off again, but it should come off easier now..

Let me know--
 

NRHX2009

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I do not have the OBS set up any more on my truck (38r and SD stuff) but this would have interested me for sure otherwise. How is this DIY as far as balancing?

As far as balancing, the wheels will come balanced individually by me. The wheels come pre balanced when manufactured, but its not as close of a tolerance I like to see. Its really no different than dropping in a wwg2 or any other wheel. The main thing that needs to be checked is the turbine wheel for damage prior to installation of this kit

-- James
 

7.3psd97444

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This is looking better and better. Glad theres no bashing happening as that tends to occur when someone tries to do something like this.

That being said, with the deployment of the new WWG2 and now this, I personally now have a decision to make.
 

NRHX2009

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This is looking better and better. Glad theres no bashing happening as that tends to occur when someone tries to do something like this.

That being said, with the deployment of the new WWG2 and now this, I personally now have a decision to make.


Well I appreciate the positive attitude with this thread so far.

Im not trying to do anything but offer a little more affordable way for you guys to get the air needed w/o having to purchase a completely new turbo or change out your stock mounting system
 

mandkole

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James, I want to do this but I'm not real familiar with turbos. I dont even know the terms..lol It wont stop me (I successfully did the DIY injectors) but want to be sure of what special tools I may need.

Since mine has never been apart (that I know of), im sure its tired. Any instructions and what do I need to be prepared for? If Im gonna give good feedback, I need to be sure my piece is good and it goes back together right.
 

MossBack

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James, I want to do this but I'm not real familiar with turbos. I dont even know the terms..lol It wont stop me (I successfully did the DIY injectors) but want to be sure of what special tools I may need.

Since mine has never been apart (that I know of), im sure its tired. Any instructions and what do I need to be prepared for? If Im gonna give good feedback, I need to be sure my piece is good and it goes back together right.

Basic hand tools will cover the removal
And install. Best to have a 10mm stubby ratcheting end wrench. And a 15, 13 and a 12pt 5/16 or a 8mm 12 pt for the bolts on the turbo. Snap ring pliers

A good idea to index the housing to the center section with a punch.

And if its rusted up plan on a couple chisels to pry it apart at least the exhaust housing.

Brake clean and shop rags just about covers it all. Not a step by step but its pretty straight forward.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2
 

NRHX2009

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Basic hand tools will cover the removal
And install. Best to have a 10mm stubby ratcheting end wrench. And a 15, 13 and a 12pt 5/16 or a 8mm 12 pt for the bolts on the turbo. Snap ring pliers

A good idea to index the housing to the center section with a punch.

And if its rusted up plan on a couple chisels to pry it apart at least the exhaust housing.

Brake clean and shop rags just about covers it all. Not a step by step but its pretty straight forward.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2


Special Tools needed

5/16 or 8mm 12point socket. preferably deepwell

in/lb torque wrench preferred but not mandatory 120in/lbs or roughly 70 degrees tighter after tightening by hand.

No snap ring pliers needed.

No need to index and housings or mark anything. Bolt holes are stagered and will only line up one way.


Like stated before, I will try to get some installation instructions together.
 

97BambiBasherPSD

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so any chance you would sell just parts of the kit? say the 66mm comp housing and 360* thrust washer? i wanna try the WW2 wheel with this setup instead of buying a d66
 

7.3psd97444

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so any chance you would sell just parts of the kit? say the 66mm comp housing and 360* thrust washer? i wanna try the WW2 wheel with this setup instead of buying a d66

The ww2 is designed for a stock housing....how would using a ported(bigger) housing be any good at all....The ww2 is not 66mm...
 

Marty

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Identical wheels, a billet wheel will be heavier then a cast.

Less weight does mean faster spool up, if they are identical wheels.

Billet refers to being made out of "one piece" which can be steel, aluminum, etc...

Billet wheels are typically made to be stronger then cast wheels and come in different designs. That's the main benefit.

I beg to differ.... The billet wheels I am using are made from a Lightweight A2000 Alcoa Aluminum.

I have weighed bullseye billet wheels in the past that Are heavier than the cast version, which will hinder spool time.

The billet version of the WWG2 for the Stock SD turbos is MUCH lighter than the cast version.

This is my point. YOUR billet wheel weighing less then the cast version of the wheel is a nice benefit that was not outlined by YOU (that I saw). The NORM as your stated experience supports is that identical wheels (as in design) is that the cast wheels are lighter then the billet wheels. The internet hooplah about billet wheels is that "they're so much lighter, they're shiney, they flow so much more air" is kind of annoying. In this case, your product minimally is lighter then it's cast counterpart, which is the exception and good news. Changing nothing else, the wheel should be stronger and spool faster. I don't know your product enough to comment about its other benefits/negatives but I personally shake my head when people smack the "it's billet so it'll spool faster" comment out there.


Everyone will say something different... The turbo builder i have talked to ALL say the Billet aluminum wheel size for size is lighter and flows more air the the stranded cast wheel... A lot has to do with the design of the wheel... Hence i said this...

Sorry for the derail NRHX2009!! I will stop here now.... I like what you are doing... Keep it up!!!

Once again, it comes down to identical wheels so we are comparing apples to apples then to what actually constitutes the word "billet". IE: a billet wheel could be made out of steel, aluminum, whatever (metal) for all I care...

Without a wheel re-design (ie: identical wheels) the flow should be more or less the same, spool up will be determined by the weight (ie: identical wheels), the main benefit as I stated in my original post is the fact the billet wheel should be stronger (no matter the *common* materials used) vs cast.


PS, I like what you're doing, and I've bought a few chargers off of you prior to you becoming a sponsor. Would be nice to run a 66mm in the stock classes so we are finally closer to the 65mm stock dmax turbos....
 

Marty

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Well I appreciate the positive attitude with this thread so far.

Im not trying to do anything but offer a little more affordable way for you guys to get the air needed w/o having to purchase a completely new turbo or change out your stock mounting system

:toast:
 

NRHX2009

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Sounds good ^^^^^^^^^ As soon as I have some of these ready they will be out the door for the guys doing testing. I am still looking for an E99 turbo to have someone do some testing and let me know the results.

Should only be a few days yet
 

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