Engine oil

cjfarm111 · Sep 8, 2016

Anybody ever try John Deere 50 plus II 0w-40? Seems like an affordable synthetic option?

jimdawg185 · Sep 8, 2016

High sulfate ash, not cj4, and an artificially high hths... Its a cheap oil. Id love to know what group they stared with to get such a high ash content with. Because PAOs (which are the only true synthetic base stock in engine oils outside GT) have lower ash in my experience. The high TBN probably means it's loaded with calcium too. Ring coking galore on that.

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cjfarm111 · Sep 8, 2016

It doesn't have a CJ4 rating? Soooo your saying steer clear?

jimdawg185 · Sep 8, 2016

It's not going to kill your engine. It's just not spec. And it's probably the ash number and the calcium. Those two things lead to ring coking, which lead to more soot and fuel dilution. Which means shorter oil change intervals. If you're doing 3k mile changes, you might not ever see any drawbacks. After that, fuel will eat it, kill your film strength and translate into higher bearing wear.

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jimdawg185 · Sep 8, 2016

Honestly, I've done lots of oil work with these engines. 15w40 holds ICP better when at op temp. And that's what the system was designed for. 5-40 starts better, but that's where the benefits end, except maybe a small bump in mileage

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cjfarm111 · Sep 8, 2016

That's what I'm after. Better cold weather starting and not having to change oil back and forth between seasonal temp changes

jimdawg185 · Sep 9, 2016

Try my 8854 and I'll throw in analysis to help you dial in the interval, or 8800. I prefer 8800 in 7.3 and 6.0

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cjfarm111 · Sep 9, 2016

Do you have a website? Or any info on the oil you sell?

NY_Mott · Sep 9, 2016

cjfarm111 said:
Do you have a website? Or any info on the oil you sell?

Here's the website.

http://www.lelubricants.com/index.html

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The Brad · Sep 9, 2016

At $16/quart it must be made out of the tears of baby unicorns!

79jasper · Sep 9, 2016

It's roughly $150/5 gallon bucket. But that was awhile back.

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cjfarm111 · Sep 9, 2016

Spendy for sure

ncollins64 · Sep 9, 2016

It's spendy but after lab results from my 7.3, my oil was still in better shape at 10k than some others oil at 5k. I'll see if I can find my sheet. O and my oil temps went down 10-12 degrees in the same working environment as the delo I was running. I'll continue to run 8800 in the 7.3 and 8854 in my new 6.7.

cjfarm111 · Sep 9, 2016

Well now that's some worth while info to consider

Coueshunter · Sep 9, 2016

Except the oil is dirtier then dirty at 10k miles even with filter changes

ncollins64 · Sep 9, 2016

I would have to disagree. But to each there own. It's funny that the oil is still red at 10k when others is jet black LOL

79jasper · Sep 9, 2016

ncollins64 said:
I would have to disagree. But to each there own. It's funny that the oil is still red at 10k when others is jet black LOL

Exactly.
I will take factual evidence over folklore any day.

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OBS-Addiction97 · Sep 11, 2016

I've been running LE 15/40 for a while now. I've never had my truck run smoother.

cjfarm111 · Sep 11, 2016

Even at 20 degrees or less? I live in Montana and winters are cold and 15-40's are to heavy when it gets cold. I'm just looking for the best year round oil.

Vader's Fury · Sep 11, 2016

I am Only in MD but I run 15-40 year round. I use Valvoline royal blue. I also plug my truck in whenever it gets below 40 so that probably helps a lot. I plug it in at work as well. Nothing like instant heat after working outside all day in the cold. Otherwise I am almost home before the cab warms up enough to be comfortable.

I am planning to give LE a try after I swap in the "new" motor for my Excursion. I run a cleanable billet filter and hope I can get 10k or more out of a service. That would make it worthwhile.