High sulfate ash, not cj4, and an artificially high hths... Its a cheap oil. Id love to know what group they stared with to get such a high ash content with. Because PAOs (which are the only true synthetic base stock in engine oils outside GT) have lower ash in my experience. The high TBN probably means it's loaded with calcium too. Ring coking galore on that.
It's not going to kill your engine. It's just not spec. And it's probably the ash number and the calcium. Those two things lead to ring coking, which lead to more soot and fuel dilution. Which means shorter oil change intervals. If you're doing 3k mile changes, you might not ever see any drawbacks. After that, fuel will eat it, kill your film strength and translate into higher bearing wear.
Honestly, I've done lots of oil work with these engines. 15w40 holds ICP better when at op temp. And that's what the system was designed for. 5-40 starts better, but that's where the benefits end, except maybe a small bump in mileage
It's spendy but after lab results from my 7.3, my oil was still in better shape at 10k than some others oil at 5k. I'll see if I can find my sheet. O and my oil temps went down 10-12 degrees in the same working environment as the delo I was running. I'll continue to run 8800 in the 7.3 and 8854 in my new 6.7.
Even at 20 degrees or less? I live in Montana and winters are cold and 15-40's are to heavy when it gets cold. I'm just looking for the best year round oil.
I am Only in MD but I run 15-40 year round. I use Valvoline royal blue. I also plug my truck in whenever it gets below 40 so that probably helps a lot. I plug it in at work as well. Nothing like instant heat after working outside all day in the cold. Otherwise I am almost home before the cab warms up enough to be comfortable.
I am planning to give LE a try after I swap in the "new" motor for my Excursion. I run a cleanable billet filter and hope I can get 10k or more out of a service. That would make it worthwhile.