Recent content by JSchuricht

Kowboy, your making me rethink my plans. Was leaning towards 364.5 .91 to go with my 95 7.3 ZF6 4.10 combo with 238/100's, not so sure about that now. @Kowboy, do you recall if the 363 was recommended in part due to the injector size and 3.55 gears?

Some interesting reading for you https://powerstrokearmy.com/threads/any-feedback-on-cncfab-stage2-hpop.79461/

You can still keep both tanks with the right valves. Efuel will work with factory lines and the factory selector valve, if you need larger lines for bigger injectors you may have to get creative. US Solid makes some diesel rated valves that will work. The way I am plumbing my 95 is with 4...

The auto computer works fine. The only issues I have with mine running an auto computer is a bit of a lope if I try to take off immediately after starting the truck which is only noticable at a drivethrugh. The light doesn't come on but there are some soft codes and the cruise control works fine.

When I did mine I used the front donor shaft but modified the OBS rear shaft. Once the ZF6 and NP271 were mounted I just held up the stock OBS shaft and marked the center of the ujoint, it was about 1" shorter. Had them install a 1410 yoke to match the NP271 output. I didn't like the idea of a...

The ZF6 is not a direct boltin, it requires more clearence from the cab, different driveshaft lengths, larger ujoints and a different transfercase unless you can find a input yoke to convert your existing one. The OD is slightly better and you gain a granny gear. Unless you get one for free or...

I have mine on the frame under the passenger door using boxes from an e-series van. The stock cable is 2/0, the longer distance means you need larger cable. To save yourself a bit of work, run the positive directly to the starter. From there you can either run a smaller cable from the batteries...

Easiest way to test it is to pull the plug and drive it. It's on the passenger side of the pedestal.

Best guess is the pressure plate. Typically it pushes the clutch against the flywheel and releases when the pedal is pressed in. If it's broken or not installed right (having a hard time picturing that) then pushing the pedal in could be pushing the plate into the clutch and the pressure plate...

The SD master requires more fabrication. The OBS master just drops in place like it was meant to fit there.

He has a ZF6 and OBS. There is a good chance that a pre bled kit is not available if he is using a OBS master and SD slave which is common on swaps. To bled the system, you need to pull the slave out of the trans and pump it by hand, holding it in for 10-20 seconds or so to help get the air out.

Well, UPS dropped off the SRP 1 on at Dyno Proven Tuesday and I had a return tracking number on Thursday. Can't say I approve of USPS for return shipping, no discount is worth the service they provide but the turnaround was nice and quick.

It will happen. Just finished pulling the SRP from the truck. :)

Don't know how I missed this thread so long. I still have an original SRP1 in the 00 and worry every time I drive it. Sending it your way this week if the weather cooperates.

Are you saying you want to swap out the PSD for an electric motor? :D Or are you just looking to downgrade to an electric fan that can't keep up while towing? If so, the better option would be an electric clutch with the mechanical fan.