CPS gear contact?

lincolnlocker · Jul 28, 2014

the silver paint was on thick and appears to have only wiped away the paint and not hit the spacer. but it was only ran for a few mins and only got up to 130°..

TyCorr · Jul 28, 2014

What did you shim it with?

When the gear was pressed on the endplay wasnt set right then?

lincolnlocker · Jul 28, 2014

TyCorr said:
What did you shim it with?

When the gear was pressed on the endplay wasnt set right then?

can you read? I made wax paper shims cuz its the thinest stuff I had that wouldnt melt. im at 3 layers now. gonna add 2 more cuz it appears that it only wiped the paint off and not actually hit the sensor. hope that is all it needs.

psduser1 · Jul 28, 2014

Same truck as the coolant leak, as in, the fresh rebuild?

TyCorr · Jul 28, 2014

lincolnlocker said:
can you read? I made wax paper shims cuz its the thinest stuff I had that wouldnt melt. im at 3 layers now. gonna add 2 more cuz it appears that it only wiped the paint off and not actually hit the sensor. hope that is all it needs.

Even though youre being a cock:

epair symptoms 1) - 5) as follows: install a 0.254 mm (0.010") shim under the*CMPsensor. If symptoms persist, increase the shim thickness to 0.508 mm (0.020") Shim (F7TZ-1 2J072-AA). NOTE SOME ENGINES BETWEEN SERIAL NUMBERS 388840 AND 410010 HAVE BEEN BUILT WITH EXCESSIVE AMOUNTS OF TRIGGER WHEEL RUNOUT. RUNOUT OF THE TRIGGER WHEEL GREATER THAN 0.508 mm (0.020") MIGHT NOT BE RESOLVED WITH A SHIM. THE ADDITIONAL CLEARANCE CAN PUT TOTAL CLEARANCE ABOVE 1.016 mm (0.040") AND CAUSE FAILURE TO*SYNCHRONIZE.
4.
If symptom 6) occurs and trigger wheel runout is greater than 0.508 mm (0.020"), try a 0.254 mm (0.010") shim. If the concern is unresolved, replace the*Camshaft*Assembly (F4TZ-6250-A). Refer to the appropriate model/year Service Manual, Section 03-01C, forcamshaft*assembly replacement procedure

I can read. Ive also seen the brass shims that were DESIGNED to space the cps to correct lateral runout and I assumed you were using the paper to make a pattern, not as the final shim material. It the runout is excessive you'll need .020-.025" shim to correct the field for the magnet. Thats assuming your camgears endplay was set correctly which Im doubting given the contact marks. Im sorry you misunderstood me. Hope this helps.

lincolnlocker · Jul 28, 2014

TyCorr said:
Even though youre being a cock:

epair symptoms 1) - 5) as follows: install a 0.254 mm (0.010") shim under the*CMPsensor. If symptoms persist, increase the shim thickness to 0.508 mm (0.020") Shim (F7TZ-1 2J072-AA). NOTE SOME ENGINES BETWEEN SERIAL NUMBERS 388840 AND 410010 HAVE BEEN BUILT WITH EXCESSIVE AMOUNTS OF TRIGGER WHEEL RUNOUT. RUNOUT OF THE TRIGGER WHEEL GREATER THAN 0.508 mm (0.020") MIGHT NOT BE RESOLVED WITH A SHIM. THE ADDITIONAL CLEARANCE CAN PUT TOTAL CLEARANCE ABOVE 1.016 mm (0.040") AND CAUSE FAILURE TO*SYNCHRONIZE.
4.
If symptom 6) occurs and trigger wheel runout is greater than 0.508 mm (0.020"), try a 0.254 mm (0.010") shim. If the concern is unresolved, replace the*Camshaft*Assembly (F4TZ-6250-A). Refer to the appropriate model/year Service Manual, Section 03-01C, forcamshaft*assembly replacement procedure

I can read. Ive also seen the brass shims that were DESIGNED to space the cps to correct lateral runout and I assumed you were using the paper to make a pattern, not as the final shim material. It the runout is excessive you'll need .020-.025" shim to correct the field for the magnet. Thats assuming your camgears endplay was set correctly which Im doubting given the contact marks. Im sorry you misunderstood me. Hope this helps.

I cant read whatever is in yellow. the local ford house has no idea what im talking about when I call and ask them about a shim kit. guess I can call them with a part number now.

79jasper · Jul 28, 2014

I "think" the shims were more common in the t444e, so you may try international, if you have one close.

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rusty1161 · Jul 28, 2014

You can try this, too http://www.ebay.com/itm/271446863532?redirect=mobile#

Rusty

Arisley · Jul 28, 2014

lincolnlocker said:
I cant read whatever is in yellow. the local ford house has no idea what im talking about when I call and ask them about a shim kit. guess I can call them with a part number now.

Here is what Ty wrote in Yellow.

I can read. Ive also seen the brass shims that were DESIGNED to space the cps to correct lateral runout and I assumed you were using the paper to make a pattern, not as the final shim material. It the runout is excessive you'll need .020-.025" shim to correct the field for the magnet. Thats assuming your camgears endplay was set correctly which Im doubting given the contact marks. Im sorry you misunderstood me. Hope this helps.

TyCorr · Jul 28, 2014

lincolnlocker said:
I cant read whatever is in yellow. the local ford house has no idea what im talking about when I call and ask them about a shim kit. guess I can call them with a part number now.

I was more concerned with you referencing the suggested corrective thickness. In other words, find a way to measure it.

The rest was information with which you can do as you please.

TyCorr · Jul 28, 2014

79jasper said:
I "think" the shims were more common in the t444e, so you may try international, if you have one close.

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk

In what capacity? Both engines were plagued with lateral tone ring runout issues (have a drink and try to say that fast) so if you meant international had more shims out there, I dont know. If you meant it was an issue in more internationals, I doubt it.

lincolnlocker · Jul 28, 2014

79jasper said:
I "think" the shims were more common in the t444e, so you may try international, if you have one close.

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk

nearest one is 2hrs away.

Arisley said:
Here is what Ty wrote in Yellow.

thank you sir..

lol. Ty, you shouldnt assume. thats all I could come up with is parchment/wax paper. its designed to hold up to some heat. more then what I should see on the motor so thats what I used. lol.. I know its hillrodish but I was trying to fix it. but with the part numbers I should be able to get the correct ones now.

79jasper · Jul 28, 2014

I just meant international would've maybe been more apt to "fix" it. Vs ford just tossing in another cps.
But I don't really know.
I was trying to see if I could find that tool for the shims, but no luck.

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TyCorr · Jul 28, 2014

I would forego ford or int'l. You need two shims. Both .010". If one doesnt fix it, add the other. It was a common issue. Ford had people who didnt know what they were doing installing the gears on cams and it created an issue. Much like the issues being seen on rebuilt engines when the correct endplay isnt used and or the tone ring is reused and not inspected.

International made a tool to measure the lateral runout and even repair some of the issues without pulling the motor. It may be obsolete now.

My opinion is that the .025" shim is too much and will break the signal. If its beyond two shims or one @.020", the front cover has to come off. Which means pulling the motor.

TyCorr · Jul 28, 2014

lincolnlocker said:
nearest one is 2hrs away.

thank you sir..

lol. Ty, you shouldnt assume. thats all I could come up with is parchment/wax paper. its designed to hold up to some heat. more then what I should see on the motor so thats what I used. lol.. I know its hillrodish but I was trying to fix it. but with the part numbers I should be able to get the correct ones now.

Pay attention to the business end of the sensor. If there are holes in it they need epoxy or something to plug them. Why the sensors ever came with holes is beyond me. The oil will eventualy get in and change the tolerance of the sensor. Hence hot oil making the truck act funny.

TyCorr · Jul 28, 2014

Here ya go Jake. Shims and the dial fot measuring lateral runout.

lincolnlocker · Jul 28, 2014

TyCorr said:
Here ya go Jake. Shims and the dial fot measuring lateral runout.

yeah I have seen that pic before. but I still dont have the measuring device..

golfer confirmed I have a cracked block in the other thread I made for the coolant leaking out of the headstud nut so I have to start over anyway I guess.. ill worry more about shimming it properly when the time comes.

DEEZUZ · Jul 28, 2014

What type of borescope do you have? I would think you would just need to see in the hole directly, toss a bar on the crank and spin it around by hand and see if something is sticking out.

lincolnlocker · Jul 28, 2014

the paint I put on the cps was wiped smooth. no marks on the cps itself so im thinking everything is still square to the block and front cover. hopefully....